Quick google didn't pull anything up, so I figured I'd post this so people can find it later.
Just a quick teardown of the 5150 III Mini while I was looking for some info
First things first, removing those hooks for the 212 cab, since I have a mesa, and they are fucking obnoxious
Pop off the front plate. It's 4 pieces, that come off as one. The main logo has 2 screws that go through the stripe plate,through the grill, and have nuts there to hold the whole assembly together. The 5150III logo is screwed on from the back to the stripe plate
The removed chassis. Of note is that the tubes are all supposedly JJs, but are (with the exception of 7 LAJ on a sticker on the base of the power tubes) completely unbadged in any way.
Chassis is very well built, and the seams in the tolex are about as well done as can possibly be, without having tolex custom made to pattern match. It took me a few looks to find the main seam. You can see that the bottom is properly shielded with aluminum foil tape
Handle is properly attached with Tee nuts
The guts. I've seen cleaner, but I've certainly seen more expensive amps with worse.
Here in the corner you can see what I'm after: The pilot light assembly.
Weird, cheap piece of shit that looks not bad, but I'd like to replace it with a normal jewel assembly. I'll talk about the problems this poses in a second.
Now there are a few issues trying to replace this fucker. Fortunately, its not TOO hard to get out. There are 2 compression tabs that hold it in. Theres also a ridge where the manufacturer puts the parts together that doesn't compress, and gets stuck. That gets frustrating fast. Also, why the fuck is there no polarity indications on the damn thing?? It matters which way you plug it in (Light Emitting DIODE, durrrr).
Anyways, from what I found surfing the web, the older ones where made by ArcoElectric, but these new ones seem to be made by Shin Chin Industrial. Regardless, its fucking huge. The hole in the chassis is just a hair shy of 22mm, whereas a normal jewel lamp requires a 17.5mm hole (or almost that, if imperial). the recess in the faceplate is 23+ fucking mil across.
The power supplied according to fender is 3v, but spec on this says 12/24. I'll take a reading myself in a few days, because who fucking knows.
I will most likely have to get a custom plate made, perhaps by Dave at FotN, to adapt to a jewel assembly. I'll also most likely just convert a standard jewel assembly. I can find some led based ones of various voltages on ebay, but they're all cheap plastic shit, not a good metal piece like you get from mojotone or elsewhere. The other option is to find a replacement LED bulb. FYI, most pilots take a standard old #47 bayonet bulb. LED replacements for these seem popular in the pinball machine repair world currently. I'll try to see if I can find one at the right voltage that will fit under the jewel.
if anyone has any ideas on the light, I'm all ears. Otherwise, I just wanted to document as much of this shit as I could somewhere so someone else can find it if theyre looking.
Most tubes are relabeled/printed by the distributors anyway, so it's not really a surprise they're unlabeled.
Btw, most pilot lights, like for example the typical fender jewel light, run on AC since they're not LEDs. The pilot light I used on my JTM build runs on 230V AC, for example...