I kind of feel like I should comment on this thread - a lot of positive but a few negative assumptions here from people.
All constructive in my view. I'd first like to say that in NO way do I consider myself to be one of the finest luthiers around. I'm self taught, and I've been building since I was 13 but as far as I'm concerned I'm still (and hopefully always will be) learning every day, with each guitar I make.
First to dispel a few assumptions made here.
The nut is NOT a pre slotted nut, and the slots are perfectly straight in relation to the fretboard. I might be self-taught but I'm not an idiot - I'd never use a pre-slotted straight nut on a fanned fret guitar.
It IS however, a straight nut-blank. And the reason I use them is quite simple. Graph-tech's Tusq XXL Black material is made from a mix of Graphite/Teflon powder which is pressure moulded into an epoxy substrate. This is why (for anyone who's cut it before) it smells like burnt hair when you cut it. The outer finish of the material that has been in contact with the mould is incredibly smooth, and much better for reducing friction than the raw material once sawn or sanded - even polished. This is why I use the pre-moulded blanks rather than cutting each nut from the larger blocks of the material - it would actually be cheaper for me to do this, but I don't like the results. My Nut slots are NOT matched to the size of the blank so the bottom of the blank is still cut to size, and the thickness is reduced to fit properly. The only concession is that the width of the blank leaves the slight angled-edges at the ends where they meet the slot-ends. Perhaps this isn't the most elegant solution from an aesthetic point of view and it may be something I look at in future but in my opinion it doesn't spoil the look and it certainly doesn't affect the playability.
On the subject of the fretboard itself, it is not raw, but finished using the same oil recipe I use on my bodies. This is polymerised tung-based combination of oils and AC lacquer that does not "yellow" and is totally matte, which gives the fretboard a more natural look. I use this firstly because it is much more protective than using simple tung oil or something like Tru-oil but also so the pearl inlays retain their whiteness, and the bodies get a nice even satin look rather than a "varnished" feel.
As Shreyas has mentioned, a separate note concerning the nut is that my standard string spacing is 6mm. This is quite narrow (and just a personal preference as I have really tiny bitch-hands.) but I've always cut nuts this way as a result. Shreyas is in the UK for a few more days so I've offered to cut him a new nut to suit him better before he goes home!
As far as I'm concerned, this kind of thing is what custom builds are all about, and I'm just happy to be able to tailor the instrument a bit more to his personal preferences.
I really hope you guys like my work (apart from the divisive nut thing!) Its a pleasure to build guitars for a living but you guys are a scary bunch sometimes!
All the best
Chris Sabre Guitars!