Pine strat?

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Thread: Pine strat?

  1. #1

    Join Date: Nov 2008
    Location: St.Louis USA
    ME: Parker MaxxFly DF824
    Rig: Dual Recto

    iTrader: 3 (100%)

    Pine strat?

    Anybody got any experience with pine strats? I'm craving a strat. I want something relic'ed/used/beat up looking. So the softness isnt an issue for me. I want it beat up. But basically, how is the tone.
    I'm sure it will be on par with an alder strat, but I'm just curious.

    The real motivation behind the pine is simply that it weighs less. Having a Carvin HH2(headless), a Parker Fly and a Parker Maxxfly for my only electrics, I'm really used to light weight guitars. My buddy has left his mexi strat with me for years and years and I was thinking about buying it from him on the cheap. Giving it a paint job and some new pups, but the damn thing is like double the weight of any of my other guitars. A pine body would help with some of that.

    Oh, and eye candy. I'm going for a literal recreation of this guitar in this color.
    Confront and Cry

  2. #2

    Join Date: Jun 2006
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    No clue about pine, but if you want light weight, you can get swamp ash bodies that are under 4 lbs.

    Warmoth Custom Guitar Products - Stratocaster« Replacement Guitar Body

  3. #3

    Join Date: Sep 2008
    Location: West Seattle, WA
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    I had a Pine Tele a few years back. Light & sounded great. It's the same bright tone you'd associate with alder & swamp ash Fenders.

  4. #4

    Join Date: Sep 2008
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    The two problems with pine are its softness and the knots.

    On a Tele, the softness isn't much of an issue, because friction helps keep the bridge in place. On the Strat, trem screws or posts are going to be exerting strong shear forces on the wood, so you're probably going to want to reinforce the screw locations with a maple block or dowels, otherwise the holes will very likely deform (best-case scenario) or tear out (worst-case scenario).

    The knots just need some extra care in finishing, such as using a shellac-based sealer coat or stain-killing primer so that the resins in the knots don't end up bleeding their way through whatever finish you put on it.

    Another excellent soft and lightweight wood is paulownia.

  5. #5

    Join Date: Feb 2010
    Location: Laramie, Wyoming
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    Have you also considered not being a bitch about guitar weights?

    My Explorer has to be over ten pounds. I play it with a strap that weighs 2-3 pounds.

    Maybe get an old man strap? Fashion and function in one product.

    Also, do a Voyager cut. That should reduce weight nicely and it looks awesome.

  6. #6

    Join Date: Feb 2009
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    Fender put out a FSR series "Reclaimed Pine" Stratocaster a few years ago. We got one in at the shop I was working at back then, and it was badass. Super light weight, and sounded great.

  7. #7

    Join Date: Sep 2008
    Location: Somerville, Ma
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    Quote Originally Posted by metalheadpunk View Post
    Fender put out a FSR series "Reclaimed Pine" Stratocaster a few years ago. We got one in at the shop I was working at back then, and it was badass. Super light weight, and sounded great.
    I remember that. I'd be REALLY worried about screwing into pine, though - the neck screws and trem studs especially, but also ittle things like the pickguard screws. Pine wings on an alder core could work, I suppose, though...

    But, I'd just go with a light Swamp Ash body, personally.
    "They can kill you, but the legalities of eating you are a bit dicier." - David Foster Wallace

  8. #8

    Join Date: Aug 2012
    Location: Chicago, Il
    ME: Strat
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    What Gregarrett said. Buy a real strat, deal with the unnoticeable 4~lb difference between your guitars that weigh the same as fairy glitter and the most common/popular guitar on the planet and make beautiful, chimey fender sounds. Unless you have back/shoulder problems, I'd go with the tried and true alder.
    ^ probably sarcasm.

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