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4K views 27 replies 8 participants last post by  ChainOfThought 
#1 · (Edited)












(and the broken stud)

I had my 7321 posted for sale but a dude offered me his s420 and I jumped at it. I'm pretty sure I got the better end of the deal on that one. It's the first time I'll have a trem that I actually try and figure out how to use/setup.

There are a couple things I've noticed you guys can probably answer though.

Weirdest is that the 1st string won't detune nearly as much as the rest when diving. It's still got a decent amount of tension while the rest are totally loose.

Second is a physical knocking sound when diving, it's like it's hitting a notch or something. Doesn't appear to affect much, I haven't played it loud enough to tell if I can hear it in a normal setting, but it's fucking annoying and I feel like it's wrong.

Third is a broken height adjustment screw... Hoping that's just easy to find a replacement for.

And last is should I use the zero point system or not? Right now I've taken it out because the first thing I read was something to the effect of not being able to do flutters and shit.

Also wondering if it's worth replacing the bridge at some point and which would be best to drop in it.

Over all I'm pretty happy with this thing. The neck is smooth as hell, the stock pickups aren't the worst, and it's light as a feather. I still have some adjusting to do to get it where I want it, but until I fix that bridge height screw I don't think I can do much. I'll add pictures later, I'm on my phone.
 
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#2 ·
The first string will never detune as much as the others, it's too close to the pivot axis, which is moved forwards, compared to a Floyd. Even on a Floyd, you can't detune it as much as the others.

Knocking sounds is probably the bearing arms not being locked down to the studs (or as you call them, height adjustment screws). At least on my trem, those nuts kept undoing themselves and I fixed the problem with plumber's tape. Given that one of your studs is broken, I suspect that's exactly what's been happening to the previous owner of your guitar.

You can get studs from Ibanez Rules, 10 bucks a piece.

Personally, I didn't like the Zero Point system, because it takes away the buttery smooth feel of the ZR tremolo, which is its main selling point.

Only the Edge Zero can be retrofitted without surgery, AFAIK. The ZR isn't bad, I actually like the feel after I replaced the stock bar with an OFR Push-in style. The original actually bent under diving, can you imagine controlling a wet noodle with another wet noodle? Mine was a ZR2, but the ZR1 also had bar problems, I think the arm holder broke or something.

Additional note: After you get the action low enough, you will probably have to shim the neck to get the full dive range. The trem should only stop diving when the bar touches the body, ideally.
 
#3 ·
Thanks for the info. I'm not sure if its the ZR1 or ZR2, haven't taken the time to figure out that detail. "height adjustment screws" one more reason I don't typically try and type up posts while I'm riding to work. Anyhow, I did have to tighten the nuts on the studs which helped quite a bit, there's still a knock when diving. It basically changed from essentially random throughout the range because the bridge was moving around, to seeming like there's one particular point where something hits something else. I dunno.

So far I'm liking it. Definitely stays in tune, sounds and feels nice enough. Haven't noticed a problem with the bar, but I also haven't really tried doing much other than flutters so far :shrug:

I'll have to read up and see if I stick with the zr or check out the edge zero. I'm thinking the ZR is gonna be perfectly good for basically finding out whether or not I'm ever going to seriously use a trem. Somewhere around 15 years or so into this gig and I haven't used one yet, so we'll see. Definitely wanting to at least get proficient with it even if I don't wind up using it much though, so I'm trying to make it as pleasant an experience as possible. Only other thing I'm wondering if I should take into consideration is switching to an Edge so that I'm getting my feet wet with a knife-edge system rather than the ball bearing, I feel like that really doesn't make all that much difference though.
 
#8 · (Edited)
At first, the nuts will seem tight, because the bearing arms bind on the threads... But can still move a little bit, hence the click. They will slacken themselves off more and more as you do more flutters. Eventually the bridge will rattle in a very shitty way that will make you lose your sanity. I have spent 10 hours debugging rattles in this trem, I kid you not. It was those nuts all along.

Slacken the strings, THEN undo the two screws that hold the springs to the sustain block. Those are cheese grade, so use a screwdriver that fits properly. Undo the nuts and the whole trem should be able to lift out of the guitar. Lay a couple of turns with the plumber's tape. Make sure you can actually get your nuts on, before installing the springs again.
 
#9 ·
Awesome, thanks. Hopefully I'll get a chance tonight. I did find last night that the click happens because the bridge can pull straight up just a bit, so it makes perfect sense that while nuts are nice and tight, they aren't properly securing the bridge as you describe.

Hopefully I can get all that done in spite of the broken stud, I can't turn it with the hex key.
 
#15 ·
I haven't had time to loosen the strings and go through all that with the tape and everything, but I did tighten the nuts with a ratchet rather than just finger twisting a socket. That did the trick, smooth and silent. I'm gonna order new studs nuts and washers (there are no washers currently but they're shown in diagrams) and once I get all that and nail down a setup I'll lock those nuts down.


Thanks for the advice. I was expecting to not like this guitar much but it's actually quickly becoming my favorite. ALMOST makes me regret the rgaix20fm. Almost.
 
#18 ·
Finally some pics, looking good. Not sure how that screw was broken but if an Edge Zero would be a drop-in replacement, I recommend it. The ZR never felt right for me as I'm used to OFR and Edge trems, while the Edge Zero is in my opinion not the best tone-wise and fell-wise, it flutters really well and stays in tune really well too.
 
#19 ·
Cool I'll look into it. I think it sounds pretty decent for being all stock. My friend has a couple different rg's with different trems, I'll have to figure out which ones they are and see if I can figure out if it's worth spending the money on.

It feels like a pretty fine axe too. I'm really leaning towards not even messing with the setup. Action is higher than usual for me but it's not terrible, it's probably just 'normal'. Considering I only spent a 7321 that I never played anymore on it I'm pretty damn happy
 
#20 ·
Pretty good deal indeed, and if it feels/sounds good, that's all that matters.

Just a note since you mentioned other trems, other trems than the Edge Zero will definitely require routing and possibly finish-related issues, and therefore cost a good chunk of money and modification. Edge Zero is worthy but again, if it feels right as it is there is no need to switch.
 
#25 ·
The ZR is probably my favorite trem. It's light and bouncy and gets great flutters like a bearing trem should. The thumbwheel spring tension adjustment is super convenient and makes it pretty quick and easy to put it in drop D and still be able to fully use the trem.

ZPS is useless, leave it out.

Yours is a ZR-1. The ZR-2 was on higher end models and had a pop-in arm with the arm tension collar attached to the trem itself.
 
#28 ·
Yea it feels pretty good to me so far. The guy it from warned that it would give him discomfort in the wrist and maybe shoulder and thigh or something. Something about it not having a forearm contour and being so skinny. So far I haven't had any issues but I also haven't put a very long session on it yet. It is super light with an awesome neck though. I definitely like it more than I ever thought i would.
 
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