Converting and Edge/Edge variant to an Schaller/OFR arm

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Thread: Converting and Edge/Edge variant to an Schaller/OFR arm

  1. #1

    Join Date: Sep 2008
    Location: The house formerly known as the Haus
    ME: Ibanez S540LTD
    MA: Taylor Big Baby
    Rig: Laney GH50L

    iTrader: 13 (100%)

    Converting and Edge/Edge variant to an Schaller/OFR arm

    I dont have an issue with the Edge bars like alot of people have, but i live in a desert, and they dont move around on me much. But the one on the lo pro i installed in my RG350 busted, and i practically had to hammer the bar in, and rip it out. I tried reassembling the barlock part of the assembly, but no good, so its time for a swap.

    This is around on the web, but the pictures are missing, and i didnt feel the description was very clear. I have pictures, which are cellphone and a bit blurry, but ill give illustrations as well

    This works on all the high end edge and variant models, so the Edge, The Lo Pro Edge, and the Edge Pro, both 6 and 7 string models.

    This consists of 2 parts. First, Removing the old collar unit, and Second, adding the new collar unit.

    What you need
    • A Schaller/OFR arm assembly
    • A crescent wrench (Pliers work, but a crescent wrench is preferable)
    • A very wide bladed flathead screwdriver
    • A fine head phillips screwdriver
    • A hammer
    • LocTite (Optional but recommended)

    Part One: Removing the old ibanez assembly.

    1. Remove Locking Spring
      if you look at the bottom of the assembly, there is a black screw directly in the bottom, which is holding a small black spring that goes into a hole in the side of the assembly. Remove this screw, and the spring. The spring usually will just fall out once the screw is removed. This small nub end of this spring that sits in the side of the assembly is what clicks into the groove on the tip of the edge bar, and holds the bar in the trem.
    2. Remove Assembly Locking Bolt
      Here starts the tricky part. if you look where you insert the bar on the top of the trem, you can see the assembly screwed into the baseplate. this assembly has a notch on either side of the circle. Looking at the bottom of the plate, right where the assembly and plate meet, you see a hex nut. This nut is what keeps the assembly from being unscrewed from the baseplate (so naturally, well remove this nut, since its at a direct moral and functional opposite to us). To remove the nut, use your flathead screwdriver on top of the plate, putting it across the hole where the bar goes, and into the 2 notches. The bitch part is finding a wide enough screw driver. I didnt have one, but i managed to use the flathead part of my Leatherman Supertool to dig into the inside of the assembly, and lock it. the metal did strip away inside a bit, and looks kinda like brass, but malformed like shitty pot metal.
      Use the screwdriver to hold the assembly in place, and then use your crescent wrench or pliers to break the nut loose (it can be tricky, locktite from the assembly sometimes leaks into this nut) and remove it.
    3. Remove Assembly Housing
      The last of the tricky bits. Use your screwdriver like you did before, across the 2 notches on top of the assembly (or simply dug inside lol) but this time, turn it counter clockwise. this part is DEFINITELY a bitch. ibanez likes to loktite the fuck out of these (which to be fair, is a good thing from a production standpoint), and ive heard of people having to have these drilled out cause they couldnt break them loose. Ive never had that issue, but it can take alot of force (heres where i tend to scrape metal shavings loose on the inside using the screwdriver). Once it breaks loose though it usually comes out without a lot of fuss

    Part 2: Inserting the new assembly
    1. Disassemble New Assembly

      youll get a few bits with the new assembly. The arm, the assembly casing, an expansion casing, a washer and a screw.
      Take out the screw and washer, and the larger expansion casing should slide off. get rid of all this, we only need the bar and the assembly casing, the piece the bar screws into.
    2. Insert New Assembly Casing
      place the new assembly casing so the part where the bar screws onto is on top (unless you wanna grab your bar from inside the trem cavity ) and place it in the hole where the old assembly was. it will barely sit in place, only the beveled bottom edge fitting in. hit it with a dab of loctite around the edges, and hammer it in. I like to put something solid flat on top of it, like my closed up leatherman, so i dont ding up the threading with the hammer. Note: you will knock metal shavings (the thread where the old assembly screwed in) out the bottom, dont freak when you see this

    Part 3: Screwing in the bar
    1. Screw the bar on

    And there you have it!

    Ill get pictures up ASAP but im having a hard time getting em off my phone
    Last edited by Max; 12-08-2008 at 05:13 AM.
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  2. #2

    Join Date: Oct 2008
    Location: Phx, AZ
    ME: Custom Tele
    MA: Guild GAD F150
    MB: Fender Jazz Bass 24 V
    Rig: Jet City JCA-22H

    iTrader: 16 (100%)

    Great Article but there is one thing that needs to be added.

    If you do this and the casing does not sit in there tightly then you will need to replace the screw that came with your bar with a 12mm long one of the same thread. (this can be found at your local Ace Harware or similar).

    FWIW I had to do this to mine.
    Last edited by Cameron; 12-09-2008 at 07:59 PM.

  3. #3

    Join Date: Sep 2008
    Location: The house formerly known as the Haus
    ME: Ibanez S540LTD
    MA: Taylor Big Baby
    Rig: Laney GH50L

    iTrader: 13 (100%)

    I forgot about that!

    Ive never had that issue, but alot of other people have apparently

  4. #4

    Join Date: Apr 2009
    Location: Poland
    ME: Jackson SLATTXMG3-7
    Rig: Bugera 6262

    iTrader: 0

    Bumping the thread, cause the solution here is AWESOME, I just did it to my Rg 550 and there's a great difference in how the bridge works now, thanks!

  5. #5

    Join Date: Feb 2010
    Location: Wisconsin
    ME: Ibby CST,CT,UV pwh
    MA: Ibby CST w/piezo
    Rig: Axe fx II

    iTrader: 4 (100%)

    Am I the only one who has never had a problem with the factory trem bar inserts???

  6. #6

    Join Date: Sep 2008
    Location: Boston, MA
    ME: EBMM JP6 / JP7
    MA: Martin DC-1E
    Rig: Axe-Fx II XL

    iTrader: 34 (100%)

    My "real" original Edges have been rock solid. Both of my Edge III's are broken.

  7. #7

    Join Date: Sep 2008
    Location: Somerville, Ma
    ME: Suhr Modern 7
    MA: Martin MC16-GTE
    MB: Dingwall Afterburner 5
    Rig: Mesa Roadster, Recto 4x12

    iTrader: 5 (100%)

    Quote Originally Posted by TMatt142 View Post
    Am I the only one who has never had a problem with the factory trem bar inserts???
    They wear out with time, if you pop the bar in and out with any frequency. You have to replace them periodically.
    "They can kill you, but the legalities of eating you are a bit dicier." - David Foster Wallace

  8. #8

    Join Date: Oct 2008
    Location: Daytona, FL
    ME: Charvel Strathead
    Rig: Laney Ironheart

    iTrader: 3 (100%)

    I wish Gotoh sold their newest bar mount as a spare part, and that it would fit an Edge/LoPro.

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