Any recommendations for fretwork tools? - Page 2

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Thread: Any recommendations for fretwork tools?

  1. #9


    Join Date: Nov 2008
    Location: Washington
    ME: 1 of 2
    MA: "Smokey"
    Rig: Peavey XXX

    iTrader: 5 (100%)

    Quote Originally Posted by Leon View Post
    I picked up a few jewelry files to trim the fret ends that were hanging from my LP neck. Anything more than that, and I'm taking it to a professional
    /thread

  2. #10


    Join Date: Jan 2016
    Location: Sofia, Bulgaria
    ME: S7420
    MB: 'Ray
    Rig: Ironheart

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jazzhands View Post
    I can't recommend much except a good diamond file for recrowning.

    I went with a standard file for crowning. I only used a beater guitar, but it nearly ruined the frets. Lots of chattering and was very uneven. Seemed like the tool itself wore out super quick.
    A good file cuts fast, avoids chatter, lasts a long time and leaves a decent surface finish. So I wouldn't take a hardware store tri-corner and grind it down, either.

  3. #11


    Join Date: Oct 2008
    Location: Cambridgeshire, UK
    ME: Ibanez RG2550E
    MB: Spector NS2000Q4
    Rig: Dual Rectifier (Reborn)

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    Yeah it's gotta be a fine diamond fine, fit for the job.

    This is why I completely disagree with using a file for levelling. I have one, and I will use it if it's an incredibly battered guitar with deep pitted frets that need refreshing, but otherwise I find the file takes off far too much metal in one pass, and leaves far more tooling marks that need to be polished out than when you use sandpaper.

    320G and a levelling beam is just right for a general level.
    www.numbskullaudio.com
    Recording. Mixing. Mastering. Editing. Re-Amping.

  4. #12


    Join Date: Mar 2010
    Location: Maribor, Slovenia
    ME: Schecter Tempest
    MA: Cort Dread
    MB: Troy Sanders Jaguar
    Rig: Thermionik

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    Thanks for the input!

    Question about using "regular" files rather than crowning files - do you then round over the edges of the fret, so it goes back to a dome shape? I have a guitar that had been levelled at some point before I bought it, and the frets are more trapezoid than domed - I'm not sure if that was deliberate or if someone just didn't bother crowning them properly.

  5. #13


    Join Date: Jan 2016
    Location: Sofia, Bulgaria
    ME: S7420
    MB: 'Ray
    Rig: Ironheart

    iTrader: 0

    Quote Originally Posted by Tibernius View Post
    Thanks for the input!

    Question about using "regular" files rather than crowning files - do you then round over the edges of the fret, so it goes back to a dome shape? I have a guitar that had been levelled at some point before I bought it, and the frets are more trapezoid than domed - I'm not sure if that was deliberate or if someone just didn't bother crowning them properly.
    Rounding over fret edges is entirely for comfort, and can reduce the "playing surface" of the fret. A tri-corner file, can easily produce triangular fret edges, which are a worse for comfort than the truncated hemioval shape they have as stock. Specialized fret-end files do an amazing job at this, but are 50 bucks. Without buying extra tools, frets can be round over between crowning and polishing, with simply sandpaper wrapped around your finger, as long as the fretboard and the edge of the neck are masked off.

    Crowning, on the other hand, is about string-to-fret contact - giving the top an easy oval shape that lets the string touch it only in the middle. If a guitar is played regularly, the tops of the frets might look flat, but actually be okay, because the strings will remove oxidation as you vibrato, but the bottom of the fret is still oxidized. Without polishing the fret, I wouldn't make a judgement. After polishing, it looks exactly how it is, round or square.

  6. #14


    Join Date: Oct 2008
    Location: Cambridgeshire, UK
    ME: Ibanez RG2550E
    MB: Spector NS2000Q4
    Rig: Dual Rectifier (Reborn)

    iTrader: 3 (100%)

    Sounds to me like they just didn't have the knack down You go back and forth over the side of the fret, increasing your angle every time, and making a 'rounding' motion as you go, until the marker you drew on there is now a nice thin uniform line down the centre of the fret. As you polish it out with your first pass of hand sanding (this should start at about 600G) you're kinda doing a bit of secondary profiling here too, which should bring more roundness to the top of the fret. If they're too triangular, then they didn't really get it right.

  7. #15


    Join Date: Sep 2008
    Location: Deep South, MS
    ME: Rich Mahogany
    MA: Godin A6 Ultra
    MB: SR500
    Rig: Massive/Boobies

    iTrader: 16 (100%)

    You guys are crazy

    I don't even file my own nuts. Those files are like $35~$40 a piece, and the local guy I was using in Toledo only charged $65 for a full setup, including nut filing.

  8. #16


    Join Date: Jan 2016
    Location: Sofia, Bulgaria
    ME: S7420
    MB: 'Ray
    Rig: Ironheart

    iTrader: 0

    Most people start teching because local luthiers are flaky slow cunts.

    Once you start buying tools, it gets easier. You can't even stop.

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