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Post your pedalboards!

116K views 311 replies 101 participants last post by  Patric Byrne 
#1 ·
This should be fun, and I'm not sure if this has been done in a while. Post them! Pics please!

Mine is at my buddy's house currently, but isn't too interesting to look at anyhow. It's a piece of plywood with a few pedals :lol:
 
#41 ·
I'm kinda starting from scratch with mine, but it's not gonna be very involved. I have a POD HD500 for control and most effects, and I'm potentially thinking of adding a little looper so I can include my Boss HM2 and EHX Big Muff (as I have some epic classic death metal and black metal tones from them) and my homemade treble booster as there isn't anything like it in the POD for lead tones.

Throw in my RMC3 wah, and I have the makings of a very comprehensive quick gig rig here.
 
#43 ·
MFC-101 with a Mission SP-2 expression pedal. The SP-2 is two channel with the state switch under the toe, and the LED changes from red to blue depending on which state it's in. That way I can switch it from something like a Wah to a Volume (or any other effect parameter, delay trails, reverb decay, gain, etc) and back on the fly.

Top right is a Mission TT-F that controls the boost engage on all of the Fractal's amp models. The tuner is in there mostly because I wanted to be able to plug my guitar into the board instead of the Axe-Fx (which is in my desk), and it provides cable strain relief as well since I'd much rather accidentally rip the cable out of a $50 tuner than the Axe-Fx.


 
#44 ·
Can't remember if I posted pics when I made this :shrug:

It'll get wired up again some time, with 2 of those Mooer things somehow added (boost and delay). All MDF construction, 2 levels, power supply goes underneath. The thing on the far right is a footrest made of layered MDF. Wouldn't mind a better looping pedal but the Memory Man gets me by.





 
#46 ·
You know the old saying about keeping it simple:



Made that last night. All I have to do is unroll the extension lead and plug it into a socket in the back of my rack, then bring the midi lead from my G Major to the G Minor. Left is patch down, right is patch up and if I hold the top button it mutes for silent tuning. Total size of board approx the same as an A5 sheet of paper.

Edit: Assume Photobucket has let me rotate the damn image the right way round here!
 
#47 ·
Lately it's nothing too fancy:



Guitar > Tuner > Wah > *Drive > Noise Gate > Amp front.
Loop send > Harmoniser > Phaser > Chorus > Delay > Loop return.

*The drive depends on what amp I use. If I use my Triple XXX, I use the Vox Ice 9. For tours where I use either a 6505+ or (hopefully) 6534+ I'll use the Micro Amp+SD1 combo.

To think this used to be a 2 part board with a Flange and Giga-Delay added. So much easier now. :lol:
 
#48 ·
Well here's my mad ghetto pedalboard



It's literally a piece of plywood I got from my grandmother. The top is the loop, the bottom is the front of amp line, which I just pulled my TS9 out of since it does nothing for me anymore. I barely use the loop effects line now, due to the fact that my 8100s loop is dead and I could honestly play a show with just the BB preamp or the SD-1. It's nice to have this stuff though, cause sometimes a little delay and a gate is exactly what you need. I also haven't use that Graphic eq as part of my signal in the longest time, since I discovered mids, but I wont sell it, not unless I use the proceeds to get an MXR 10-band.

Also, nice to see someone else rocking the SD-1, Bloody Inferno.
 
#49 ·


Here's what I'm currently using. Boss GT-8 four-cabled to the amp, plus a Korg Pitchblack, MXR Custom OD, some extra control pedals for the GT-8 and an NS-2.
 
#50 ·
No pics yet (unless you want one of the floor with half the pedals on, and half the stuff is being shipped) but my B rig is going to be

Peavey Ultra Plus as the amp

Before the amp
Teese RMC3 wah
HBE Germania treble booster
Foxrox Octron octaver/upper octave pedal
EHX Little Big Muff
Boss HM2
Digitech Whammy WH4

In the loop
ISP Decimator
TC Electronics Flashback delay
Mooer Ninety Orange phaser
Arion SCH-Z chorus

All using a G Lab GSC-2 and M4L for control, loop and amp switching.

A Mr Black Eterna and SuperMoon are likely to make an appearance before long I expect too...
 
#51 ·


This is it so far, just need to cable up and power and its all good to go.

I do have an Arion SCH-Z now, but I've found that it is really naughty to treble. Enable the loop with it in, blanket in front of speakers. Disable loop, blanket removed. It's a real shame because the faux-Leslie sound is gorgeous on it, and the chorusing is really nice too.

As you can also see, the Eterna was purchased. The Eterna and Flashback are fast becoming my two favourite pedals out of all of them. Them two on a clean channel leaves me unable to do much but play atmospheric clean parts for a good 20 or so minutes, hard to stop playing.

Also I had some issues with the HBE Germania so I've put in a Greg Covington Fireplace instead which I picked up for £29 at a local guitar store. They are apparently based on the Cornish TB-83s, which is the Queen sound of the 80s. I checked up with Greg on this as it had no decals or anything, and it turns out it was one of his really early builds so I've got a bargain out of this.

Stitch suggested a patch bay in the top right hand corner which is probably a very good idea. The input and output jacks on the GSC2 are in quite an awkward place, so a patch bay seems almost daft not to do.
 
#52 ·
I do have an Arion SCH-Z now, but I've found that it is really naughty to treble. Enable the loop with it in, blanket in front of speakers. Disable loop, blanket removed. It's a real shame because the faux-Leslie sound is gorgeous on it, and the chorusing is really nice too.
If I were you I'd send it to get it modded. There are lots of people who do it. Mine is one of the EWS modded ones and it sounds great with no blanket effect :(
 
#53 ·
Yeah, the only problem is its about $200 at that point for the EWS version, I'm assuming them modding mine wouldn't be a lot less. If it was meant to be a cornerstone of rig I'd consider it, but beyond a touch of the Leslie here or there I don't think I'd be using it a huge amount anyway.

I may have a look at how it can be modded and have a go myself. Given it cost me less than a good night out I can afford to play around with it.

Still, I must give the EWS or Vertex version a go at some point.
 
#55 ·
Even when off there is huge treble loss. Apparently the "bypass" still goes through the tone circuit on it, hence why the true bypass mod is popular with it.

The tone control is supposed to boost the amount of treble you get out of it, but it seems to go from fuck all to mostly fuck all.
 
#56 ·
Even when off there is huge treble loss. Apparently the "bypass" still goes through the tone circuit on it, hence why the true bypass mod is popular with it.

The tone control is supposed to boost the amount of treble you get out of it, but it seems to go from fuck all to mostly fuck all.
Then true bypass it. For a total cost of about £3.50 (thanks to Dr. Tweek) you can do it yourself no bother.
 
#58 ·
I'm just a beginner and have started my pedal board with a new Boss TU-3 tuner. However, today I visited my local music store looking for a used Metal Core, but walked out with a $15.00 Fender Starcaster Flanger. I have to say I feel like that was the best $15.00 I have ever spent. Granted it is a cheap pedal, but man it really makes some way cool tones. If you can't tell I'm on a tight budget. I left my name and number at the store, so the next used Metal Core or Metal Zone that comes in is mine. Other than those, I plan to get a chorus, delay, phaser, wah, and volume. I'll post pics once I get some patch cables and get what I have situated. I have a feeling I wont be able to stop with these. I've been bitten by the pedal bug!
 
#59 ·
Did some cleaning up and changing.

Before:


After:


In both, my signal comes out of my guitar on a stereo Planet Waves cable, into a splitter (homemade box on old board, Road Rage Pro Gear Stereo Splitter on new board, which adds mute switches and super-bright LEDs). From the splitter, the piezo signal goes to the Fishman Aura Spectrum, DI-ed out to the PA. The magnetic signal goes first to my Korg Pitchblack tuner, to the Dunlop Jerry Cantrell Crybaby (such a sweet sounding wah), into the MXR 10-Band EQ (used to pull back my gain and tweak the EQ to create a switchable clean tone, since I use a single channel amp), into the MXR Zakk Wylde Overdrive (lead boost and general thickener, as my basic amp tone is pretty mid-gain), into the MXR Phase 90, into the MXR Carbon Copy delay.

The entire pedalboard goes in front of my amp now, though I used to run the Phase 90 and Carbon Copy in the loop. The Phase 90 sounded absolutely horrible in the loop on my amp, and also gave a huge volume boost. In front of the amp, it sounds like a Phase 90 should. The Carbon Copy sounded better in the loop, but I'm liking how it sounds out front as well, and I don't use it often enough right now to make it worth running 2 extra cables at shows just for the one pedal. In the studio, I'll wire things up however they sound best for the part I'm playing.
 
#61 ·

The NS-2 is running in the X pattern. There's a Weeping Demon, Whammy IV, Goudie G-Drive, Moogerfooger MuRF, Montreal Assembly White Fritter and Probability of a Fax Machine, Micro Synth, Creamy Dreamer mod Big Muff, and a tc electronic G-System as the brain. All of the effects, save for the wah and the whammy, run in loops from the G-System. I can program patches that include the looped effects and trigger channel and solo boost changes on my head.

It's fucking sweet and it took forever to settle on this setup, but I finally feel like I'm working with something that's not holding me back at all. Now to dust off those chops....
 
#72 · (Edited)
Wirelessly posted :)sponge:)

Stitch said:
eleven59 said:
^ I love my Carbon Copy, my only complaint is that turning it off kills the delays, rather than trailing out. Not a big deal, though, really.
There's a microswitch inside that lets you turn trails on.
...WHAT?

I really need to start reading manuals :lol:

Edit: it's not mentioned in the manual :lol: I feel better

Edit 2: or anywhere else on the Internet :scratch:
 
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