NGD: Parker-ish Build (Bumblefoot content) - Page 2
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Thread: NGD: Parker-ish Build (Bumblefoot content)

  1. #9

    Join Date: Dec 2008
    Location: Pennsyl-tucky
    ME: Schecter KM-7 mk iii
    MA: Wasburn D12S
    Rig: Orange Brent Hinds Terror

    iTrader: 0

    Wow Randy that looks great.

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  3. #10

    Join Date: Oct 2016
    Location: Corpus Christi
    ME: LTD H7, KM6, 540SLTD
    MB: SR305E
    Rig: Helix

    iTrader: 0

    Great job!
    Tone Chasers Anonymous ™ - I’m not just a member, I’m the President.
    Don’t expect much, it’s not like I’m a rocket surgeon.

  4. #11

    Join Date: Sep 2008
    Location: Kitchen/Laundry Room
    ME: Ironing Board
    MA: Laundry Mangle
    MB: Cascade Dish Detergent
    Rig: Washing Machine

    iTrader: 2 (100%)

    Thanks folks!

    Quote Originally Posted by Greg McCoy View Post
    Curious about the nut though. It seems like a non metal nut would be "too warm". I would assume you would want a metal one to equalize the tone between open strings and fretted strings, for the same reason some people like zero frets. I'm not a direct mount fan, but the more angular cuts for the tabs look better than most routes. The black pole pieces on the bridge pickup gel well with the hardware too. Need some black pole pieces on the neck pickup.

    Is the wood cover for the control cavity one of those corksniffer "held on with magnets because I am too good for screws" deal?

    Ballsy idea too. Fretless bass is one thing, due to the relative lack of polyphonic chording in bass compared to guitar, but I can tell you for damn sure I wouldn't even want anyone to hear me attempting to play a fretless electric.

    What's the scale length? I feel like if you decide a fretless bass is more usable you could build a new Bass 6 type neck for it and convert it fairly easily, since the bridge isn't one that has a ton of routing going on.

    Also, what's the truss rod situation going on there? No truss rod because the metal for the fretboard is robust enough?
    Seeing if I can answer these in order

    I THINK I considered a metal nut early on in the process but either forgot or had trouble finding the right specs. I'm not sure how much a difference it makes but yeah, sustain is an issue with these in general, so anything that enhances it would be wise. I was considering an epoxied wood board but went with aluminum for that exact reason. The low strings actually resonate really well, the top two not so much but I hear you need higher tensions and better technique to make it "work".

    Pickup routes are J. Custom stylized just because I liked the tight triangular ears. I didn't choose them specifically for this, I happened to have an accurate set saved in CAD from an Ibanez mockup years back. I like the way it looks but I'm direct mount vs. pickup ring agnostic, so I could go either way. Pickups are just what I had lying around. I didn't realize they shipped with black screws standard on one and chrome on the other at the time, which is part of the reason they sat

    Wood cover is an afterthought. I planned on just good ol' plastic and screws but I forgot I'm out of cavity material. I used a piece of scrap I have lying around. In Fusion 360 with that specific CNC, .03" extra removal from stock is the magic number to make anything fit but hold in place under tensions. So for now, it's just being held in there by pressure, it will probably get screws. The magnet thing is cool but mounting them is a PITA that I'm not so interested in.

    It's a normal 25.5". I watched a bunch of YT videos of guys playing them (including lots of Bumblefoot and Fountainhead), and it's definitely got a sound reminiscent of a fretless bass on the low strings but the high register is it's own "thing". I'm looking forward to trying it with the eBow when I get it home (haven't actually plugged this in at all yet).

    No trussrod on this for basically the reason you said. I did a lot of testing trying to bend that aluminum board and it's VERY stiff. When you route the truss rod, a lot of people forget you're adding a metal rod but you're also cutting out a giant piece of wood down the middle of the neck right down the spine. I felt like the stability from leaving the neck solid plus the aluminu, would be a good balance. It actually has a tiny tiny tiny tiny tiny pinch of relief to it, surprisingly.
    Argbadh - RHLC©

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  6. #12

    Join Date: Nov 2013
    Location: Akhet-Aten
    ME: Jackson CS KE2
    MB: LTD Surveyor
    Rig: Diezel Einstein

    iTrader: 2 (100%)

    Very cool, congrats!
    Looking forward to hearing some Fountainhead style leads from that.

    call me on 911 (USA) or 999 (UK) for poser disposal services

  7. #13

    Join Date: Sep 2008
    Location: Montreal / QC. / CAN.
    ME: Robin Medley Special
    Rig: 6505~(some pedals)~Mesa

    iTrader: 2 (100%)

    Amazing! Wow, well done!
    President - Reverse Headstock Lover's Club ©

  8. #14

    Join Date: Oct 2008
    Location: Manhattan
    ME: Forshage, EBMM
    MA: Blueridge BR-40
    MB: Dingwall Afterburner
    Rig: Soldano HR25, Mark V:25

    iTrader: 12 (100%)

    Wow, that's awesome!
    Too much focus leads to tunnel vision
    Too much faith leads to religion
    Too much knowledge leads to confusion
    Too many guitar lessons lead to jazz-fusion

  9. #15

    Join Date: Feb 2013
    Location: Seattle, WA
    ME: Explorer Custom

    iTrader: 0

  10. #16

    Join Date: Feb 2013
    Location: Capital of NY
    ME: 80s Carruthers strat
    MA: 90's era Fender 12 string
    MB: Ibanez ATK300 (MIK)
    Rig: Danelectro Honeytone

    iTrader: 5 (100%)

    Very nice. I'm envious, of how the build itself turned out, but even more so of the fact you had the time to pour into this.
    "40 is the new 80." - jaxadam

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