Making something: Lockdown Edition - Page 9
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Thread: Making something: Lockdown Edition

  1. #65


    Join Date: Oct 2008
    Location: Herndon, VA
    ME: Jackson Soloist
    Rig: Fractal Audio Axe-FX II

    iTrader: 4 (100%)

    That's just amazing, really.

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  3. #66


    Join Date: Sep 2008
    Location: Kitchen/Laundry Room
    ME: Ironing Board
    MA: Laundry Mangle
    MB: Cascade Dish Detergent
    Rig: Washing Machine

    iTrader: 2 (100%)

    Quote Originally Posted by budda View Post
    This thing is moving fast!
    You jinxed it!

    Been quiet here because I ran out of stuff I have here in-house, and All-Parts+shipping have been slowed down due to COVID-19 and backlogs. Anyway, I got a shipment in yesterday. Supplies are almost entirely for this build, plus 48ft. of SS fretwire and six truss rods to button up some other builds I have around the shop.



    Also a shipment came in from Floyd Rose.



    Mini-rant: Got a fretboard. I've been considering trying Richlite because I like sustainable materials and I like the consistency of coloring. Unfortunately, I can resaw my own fretboards for a fraction of the price, so the Richlite didn't seem necessary or practical.

    Fast-forward to this build, I need ebony or something ebony-like and my lumber yard doesn't carry that. Good opportunity to go Richlite, so I track some down. Price is okay. Suggested search is a piece of Gaboon Ebony, for around the same price. I wait on it for a day and I end up getting an offer for a gew bucks off of the ebony that brings it considerably lower than the Richlite after shipping. I ultimately end up taking that route.

    If Richlite is going to be a sustainable alternative to exotic woods, it's hard to compete with literally THE cadillac of fretboard woods on moral grounds only. It's chopped up paper FFS. Anyway, enter one super dark piece of ebony for a spooky guitar build.



    I did some work in the meantime. I slotted the truss rod with the CNC. I had pics of the process of taping it down that I lost somehow but basically I traced the neck onto my spoilboard, put blue painters tape down, put blue painters tape on the matching surfaces of the neck and superglued them together. This is a VERY strong bond that I use when screwing down the worpiece isn't an option.

    Presto truss-rod-o!





    I typically use heel end truss rod adjustment but went with headstock end mounting this time just to match the original more closely. This turned out to be a fucking mess.

    I went to put the truss rod in, and the adjustment didn't fit in the route. It wanted more room left and right and up and down. I measured the channel depth next to the neck thickness and to get the truss channel deep enough for the adjustment to fit, I'd have to get down to .45" deep and the neck thickness is closer to .47" total. That'd be only .02" of wood left! Yikes!

    Also, left to right, even with the ~.26" wide channel, there's barely clearance for the Floyd Rose nut to clear the channel. I'm worried the screws will tearout into the channel. Mounting with machine screws through the back of the neck a la Ibanez LMAO no way, not even close clearance-wise.

    Enter Mini Rant #2: Two-Way Truss Rods, fuck 'em. I've been repairing guitars for ~15 years and I've NEVER had a neck of my own or one that came in that needed relief backward after you release any tension in the rod to zero. I've had some necks that weren't straight after relieving all tension and it's always twisted, none of which that would be relieved with turning the truss rod the other way.

    My Parkers, while the carbon fiber skin helps, their truss rod is literally a piece of threaded piano-wire and they've been straight as an arrow, one of which is 30-ish yearsh old. I'm starting to think a single action truss rod is more than enough, and it removes a lot less material. I'm also waaaay less interested in headstock-end truss adjustment in general, it's cutting out MORE material at the thinnest part of the neck. WHY?

    Okay, end rant. Fuck two-way truss rods with headstock adjustment. I decided to refill it and I'll reroute for heel adjustment.

    Argbadh - RHLC©

  4. #67


    Join Date: Sep 2008
    Location: Kitchen/Laundry Room
    ME: Ironing Board
    MA: Laundry Mangle
    MB: Cascade Dish Detergent
    Rig: Washing Machine

    iTrader: 2 (100%)

    Alright, goodies delivered = rapidfire updates are back.

    Last of the important stuff is in, thanks to ye' ol' adminishredder. Shipment complete with CQ picks and the scent of scrotum, which means this is authentic.



    Glue dried/cured, so it was time to take another swing at the truss rod. Much happier with the new fitment.



    Most of the rest of the day was dedicated to fretboard schtuff. Input one 'blacker than Dick Cheney's soul' piece of ebony.



    I tried a new CAM carving profile this time. My old one was, I believe, all 3D adaptive and a horizontal parallel process but the 3D adaptive took some deeper than I'd prefer passes and the stepover on the parallel passes made it a long process to get it cleaned. So I tried 3D pocket clearing and widthwise parallel clearing instead. I'm super happy with it this way. This should give you an idea of the tool marks you need to get out.

    I also included a snap of how I mount when I glue to the table. Super glue and accelerant, bonds in 2 or 3 seconds.







    After this, onto the fold-up bench to hit it with some elbow grease. 16" radius block with 60 grit paper for fast clearing. I have that glued to the block and I use the grip of the sand paper to hold each successive grit. Sand up to 220 and it's soft smoooooth (just like-a silk-a).







    I have fret slotting CNC bits, but they break easy and they take a while. I have an old school 'Randy's secret weapon' rig I use for slotting that still does it faster and more reliable than anything else. It's an old 'overhead' sliding miter saw with a .023" screw slotting blade and a jig I threw together. The board sticks to a notched slotting template, and an indexing pin locks into each position. The saw needs the slide oiled every use to move freely but otherwise it's pretty seamless and fast.



    The slots come out clean but they don't go super deep, so I clear out each slot by hand with a fret saw. I've got the HF cutoff saw and it's insane value, I've been using the same one for ~12 years. This deepens, slightly widens the slot and the manual sawing lets me follow the radius, which gets you the depth you need for the fret tang without cutting too deep and losing rigidity in the fretboard.



    Fretboard still needs inlays but they're on their way. Allparts shipment showed up without them because they're on back order, so I ordered them from elsewhere. MOP.

    Not sure what I did wrong in my neck programming but the contour came out ~1/32" wider than the template, so I'm going to sand that down to narrow it up a little better. Face of the headstock can use some thickness sanding before the tuners go in, and a little cleanup from the truss rod fill.

    I cleaned up some of the tearout on the fingers of the body carve. I had a little more hand carving left before I snapped the flexshaft on my Dremel, replacement just came in yesterday so fine carving left to do with that.

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  6. #68


    Join Date: Nov 2013
    Location: Akhet-Aten
    ME: Jackson CS KE2
    MB: LTD Surveyor
    Rig: Diezel Einstein

    iTrader: 2 (100%)

    Great progress! Are you getting the inlays as raw material or pre-cut?
    call me on 911 (USA) or 999 (UK) for poser disposal services

  7. #69


    Join Date: Sep 2008
    Location: London ONT
    ME: 6's
    MB: Aerodyne
    Rig: AxeFX III

    iTrader: 1 (100%)

    That ebony looks great!
    ________________________________________
    Needs Sleep

  8. #70


    Join Date: Sep 2008
    Location: Kitchen/Laundry Room
    ME: Ironing Board
    MA: Laundry Mangle
    MB: Cascade Dish Detergent
    Rig: Washing Machine

    iTrader: 2 (100%)

    Quote Originally Posted by BStobart View Post
    Great progress! Are you getting the inlays as raw material or pre-cut?
    Premade just cause they're dots. I'm not taking a ton of artistic licenses with this one, but I've got some ideas for other projects kicking around.

  9. #71


    Join Date: Oct 2008
    Location: NJ
    ME: Les Paul
    Rig: STL Will Putney plugin

    iTrader: 0

    Best thing so far are the MG picks! Just kidding man! You are kicking some serious ass on this project!

  10. #72


    Join Date: Sep 2008
    Location: Kitchen/Laundry Room
    ME: Ironing Board
    MA: Laundry Mangle
    MB: Cascade Dish Detergent
    Rig: Washing Machine

    iTrader: 2 (100%)

    Quote Originally Posted by schreckmusic View Post
    Best thing so far are the MG picks! Just kidding man! You are kicking some serious ass on this project!
    Those are my consolation prize for winning "What'd Chris buy?" like five times in a row

    Incremental update.

    Finally got the neck and body mated up. Ran a pocket contour procedure on the CNC. That definitely cleaned up the pocket some but neck still didn't fit until I sanded the neck down to the width of the template. Not 100% sure what the neck width issues was but I suspect it's because I had the carving procedure set to leave some stock on the back of the neck for sanding but it probably wrapped around to the edges as well.

    I know what the pocket problem was though; normally I use the neck tenon to set the pocket contour, but this time was funky because the heel block and neck I chose didn't line up 100%, so I made an asymmetrical carve. Too many variables putting a symmetrical neck in an asymmetrical route. Cleanup up process was a clear pocket based on tenon.



    Drilled for the tuners. Started photographing the process but had my hands full. Also went to snap a pic with the tuners installed, but I misplaced one of the retaining nuts and wasn't going to spend a lot of time looking at the moment. So anyway, a somewhat anticlimactic pic of the headstock with tuner holes. You can also see where I filled the truss rod. If it were natural I'd have gone a different route but it's gonna be black like George's, so that'll do.



    I did a short video showing the Sperzel reversal process. Forgive my fat hands in the way but should give folks who haven't done it before an idea of the process. Video is a minute and a half but I think you can do it in 30 sec if you're not trying to show it to the camera



    Last item of the day was getting the fretboard glued on. Transferred the shape to the board and tapered it on the bandsaw, plus ~1/8" for wiggle room that'll get sanded out after it dried.



    A couple passes with 60 grit on the back gives the glue more places to sink in for better adhesion.



    More clamps! If Hell exists and I end up there, it'll be twisting those goddamn wingnuts for eternity. I've seen acoustic builders use the same clamps but with nuts and a nut drive set to medium torque. Might convert over to that to save my fingers.

    I typically drill four holes in the fret slots and tap in brad nails to keep the board from moving but I had the wrong bit and nails today. In lieu of that, I got the wood glue tacky and wiggled the board around to get it to bite, then clamped down with the nut-end pump clamp to hold everything in place.

    Screw clamps are handling edges, Irwin clamps are handling the middle. I also fired up the dehumidifer to speed up the drying process. You'd be surprised how long wood glue stays wet deep inside these things, despite the advertised drying/curing times.



    Edit: Found it.


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