Small amount of play in my OFR anchors on my Suhr 7 - Page 6
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Thread: Small amount of play in my OFR anchors on my Suhr 7

  1. #41


    Join Date: Oct 2008
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    As others have said, dont put loctite on your studs. Teflon tape. Then do the right thing buy a new set of studs. If the new studs wiggle, then call Suhr and see about having the studs replaced under warranty. If you ask nice, they may even install the Gotoh studs for you.

    Also to everyone saying that 7's dont flutter as nice, invest in a set of red high tension springs, install them in the chicken foot, bask in the fluttery goodness.

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  3. #42


    Join Date: Sep 2008
    Location: Somerville, Ma
    ME: Suhr Modern 7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Überschall View Post
    tl/dr; post a video please.
    Goddamn trolls.

    Come to think of it, I should still have the studs lying around from my chrome OFR7 in my UV, which is still on the Ibby locking studs (and which flutters just fine, I don't buy that the seventh string is my issue here, especially in that I can FEEL the play in the system when I grab the bar). I'll swap those in the first free night I get.
    "They can kill you, but the legalities of eating you are a bit dicier." - David Foster Wallace

  4. #43


    Join Date: Sep 2008
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    Quote Originally Posted by bigdave View Post
    Well, I like that they are lo-profile, already come with the brass block and you can choose how big you want, are smoother on the hand, very well made in Japan, dont use that screw coller I hate- have a push in arm. To me anyway, its a more evolved unit.... and it costs about hald as much. Try one at that price and its hard to loose. Im doing a Warmoth build and Im going with the Gotoh.
    the GT1996T isn't low-profile? Otherwise, yeah, they're quite good. That said, as Garrett said the Floyd studs won't move under tension enough to make any difference, although this is one reason some people go gaga over the wood screws, since they don't move at all (or last worth a crap in basswood, but that's a different discussion). Historically, the WD studs have been the tightest, but I doubt they make them the same way now.

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  6. #44


    Join Date: Feb 2010
    Location: Laramie, Wyoming
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mike View Post
    the GT1996T isn't low-profile? Otherwise, yeah, they're quite good. That said, as Garrett said the Floyd studs won't move under tension enough to make any difference, although this is one reason some people go gaga over the wood screws, since they don't move at all (or last worth a crap in basswood, but that's a different discussion). Historically, the WD studs have been the tightest, but I doubt they make them the same way now.
    You can still get the mega serious studs they used for the Kahler Steeler. No one else in this thread has one of those, but I remember you buying one off me and being a fan. More obscure bridge, but it is one of the greatest OFR double locking bridges ever made. All the boutique strat guys used to use them. Zion, Anderson, etc. etc. etc. Not to be confused with the Spyder or the killer of course. I don't remember if the inserts themselves are the exact same diameter. They are actually beefier than anything you will see on a floyd type trem, with more serious, deeper, threading. https://www.whammyparts.com/kahler-r...er-post-detail Kahler's quality has always been great on their more serious models. Which is probably why they switched to making golf clubs, where you can make more money off of people who want things made out of premium quality metals.

    You have to replace the inserts, since Kahler threading isn't metric. But all of the threaded Kahler stuff is beefy as fuck. A post is a post. As long as it has the pivot point it works.

    Floyd Rose posts come in a variety of lengths actually. There is no uniform length. Longer is obviously better and more stable. I've pulled shorter ones and replaced them with longer ones. I actually don't know of any site that specifies the length when you order.

    The "Gotoh vs. Schaller" thing is actually way old news. That was a thing around 2008. When Suhr stopped using Schallers and switched to Gotohs. At the time the Gotohs were cheaper and the Schaller made OFRs were widely viewed as declining in quality. There has been over a decade worth of developments since then, including Gotohs increasing in price.

    So if you don't have a good memory of contemporary history it's definitely something to be aware of. All the opinions you see that are like "The Gotohs kill the Schallers" are circa 2008. A lot has changed since then. Gotoh upped their prices and I've also seen people bitching about a perceived drop in the quality of Gotoh OFR type trems.

    Since then Schaller has also upped their game and came out with the Lockmeister once patents expired. I had one of those. Nice trem. Schaller has overhauled all their shit at least twice since the "Suhr switching to Gotoh " development that is still widely cited. I don't actually know where things stand now.

  7. #45


    Join Date: Feb 2010
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mike View Post
    although this is one reason some people go gaga over the wood screws
    Also worth noting that part of the reason the wood screw ones still have an audience isn't because people necessarily believe going straight into the wood is better, but because a screws strength and stability is affected by how fine and deep the threading is.

    Schallers threading has always been wonky on some of their products. The screws that come stock with their straplocks are always shorter and involve finer threading than the screws guitar manufacturers use stock. You basically have to throw those out and use your own, although they redesigned their straplocks recently too, so I don't know if it's still a problem. There is no point in using a straplock if the failure is going to happen when the wimpy screw you use to attach it to the guitar rips out.

  8. #46


    Join Date: Oct 2008
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    I recently bought a brand new Gotoh that replaced the OFR in my Xiphos, and the quality is still 100%.

  9. #47


    Join Date: Sep 2011
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mike View Post
    the GT1996T isn't low-profile?
    I think the first thing I said was that they are lo-pro... "Well, I like that they are lo-profile, "
    Vag Jackson, Man Of Action

  10. #48


    Join Date: Sep 2008
    Location: Somerville, Ma
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    BTW, update on this - I tried replacing the studs, with no change, so I swapped the old ones back. I then spent some time going over te rest of the bridge assembly, and eventually figured out the problem wasn't the studs, or the arm holder itself, but rather that there was some play in the sleevearound the arm, and that if the tension screw was cranked tight enough down to eliminate ALL play, it became impossible to remove the arm without a fight. So, I just tightened it down, and will accept the fact that removing the arm now pretty much requires a small allen key to first loosen the tension screw. Not really as problem since I leave my guitars on wall hangers and they spend very little time in cases, but I'm a bit dissapointed in the craftmanship of the push-in arm holders compared to Gotoh and Wilkinson versions, and compared to even the original one I had, that I overtightened and that suffered from a too-long insert for the bar that held it fairly high over the body.

    When this is all said and done, I might reach out to Floyd Rose and see if they've updated the arm holder, since the issue seems to be a very plastic-y bushing material that deforms under pressure from the set screw.

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