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Lo Pro Edge-7 Problem: Stripped Nut?

3K views 20 replies 8 participants last post by  BetterShredThanDead 
#1 ·
So I put a Lo-Pro-Edge on a heavily modded RG-7420 and thought it would be an improvement. Overall it was, particularly for the string profile to fret board compatibility but it cannot stay in tune after doing both dives (both forward and back). Most of these problems have to do with the nut more often than not. I went over the list of things here BTW:

https://www.ibanezrules.com/tech/setup/tuning_stability.htm

And so given the above I suspect I may have some stripping at the nut that is causing problems, in particular where the pressure pads and nut meet. So is the attached photos indicative of that? Only other thing I can think of is maybe a shim is required.

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#6 ·
The issue I'm having here is that usually you know when a nut is stripped by the allen screw slipping when you go to torque it down. Is that happening? Because if not, that's not your problem. Actual clamping surface of the pad could be glazed or worn, otherwise your problems are down on the other end of the guitar.
 
#7 ·
Oh I see. Yeah the bolt/allen screw sets in place. Hmmm, at the other end. Well, according to the Granville guitar guy lube is essential on the knife edge. That I haven't done. Other than that I think the studs are stable. Its a new unit so the knife edge is not worn in anyway. I guess lube it up? I haven't gotten a syringe yet to do it but I guess that's what I should be looking into now.
 
#10 ·
I recently had an issue with a stripped nut on one of my floyds. Couldn't keep stable tuning for dives. Stripped 2 bolts on the same nut hole trying to crank it down beyond the stripping. Was gonna look to buy a new nut, but I had already been cleaning and lubing floyds for other guitars, so I dismantled the whole thing and gave it a bath of WD40 and gun oil. I did this for all the parts besides the block and the fine tuner tension plate. Left it in there over night. I've read some people say not to use WD40 on trems because it'll dry out the parts, but mixing it with the gun oil seemed to work fine. Killed most of the rust and completely loosened up the frozen saddles, of course I had to do some scrubbing with an old toothbrush. Put everything back together, stringed it up, fortunately had some steel cap screws laying around to use for the nut (they look the same as original floyd nut clamp screws). Cranked down pretty hard on the nut clamps. Harder than I used to. Then again I've been using the trem harder than I used to. Everything was stable, diving for days!

Now, I'm not sure if this will help cause you said your trem is new. And I'm not even sure exactly what fixed the tuning stability issues. I mean, the nut was stripped and that was an obvious problem, but I'm using the same partially stripped nut just with new bolts. And cranking them down hard. I think just cleaning and lubing all the moving parts helped a lot. It's been through 2 string changes now and the stripped nut hasn't caused anymore problems. It's actually holding tune better than it has in (neglectful) years.
 
#11 ·
stupid question, but, how tight are your neck bolts?

secondly, have you locked the studs in the posts?

third question, if yopu clamp the strings with the nut, so it's locked with pads on, can you change the tuning of any of the strings with the tuning pegs? ie, if you slack string via tuning peg, does it slack the tuning?
 
#14 ·
1) Yes. Although I don't think that was the problem as after I did that no noticeable difference was observed.

2) I believe so. I know the Ibanez Rulez guy says turn till there is no slop. I think its turned all the way it can be but am not sure. I noticed when turning the studs too much you get to a point where you can't get the wrench out so right now turned to the point where you can still get the wrench out but not super tight.

3) Nope they stay in tune. Guess its not the pressure pads in relation to the nut then.
 
#16 ·
One other thing that may help here is this picture of the internal cavity. There was a mistake made when drilling in for the posts of the studs. Too much of the cavity was taken out and you can actually see the post as it is exposed. I tried to see if there was any movement though when doing dives and what not and there was none that I could see. Not sure if that really matters of not. It may be moving anyway and I just can't
see.

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#17 ·
Put some lube that just came in the mail today on the knife edge and all the other critical areas that Granville guitar recommends. That seemed to do the trick. I'm just relieved it wasn't a defect in the hardware somewhere. Little details like this (applying the lube) really do count and make a big difference.
 
#19 ·
Yeah exactly. I went ahead and did the same to an Edge Pro I have in my 2610e that was giving me nothing but trouble and it also did the trick. Only guitar it hasn't worked for is my RG-470, which is MIJ, but has a lo-TRS in it. That is still giving me nothing but trouble. Not sure if the lube can or anything else will make a difference there or not.
 
#21 · (Edited)
They get bad reviews around here I know. Although I have one in a 7420 that I bought used and kept all original yet it seems ok on that one. The setup is a little odd on that guitar as the guy before kept the string retainer all the way down. I know its not supposed to be like that, but I'm kinda afraid to set it properly since it all works fine at the moment.

I just tried again my 7420 with the Lo-Pro in it and now when I dive forward its fine but it doesn't like the backwards dive. I can reverse the negative tuning effects of the backwards dive by simply forward diving it again. Not sure what that's indicative of. Maybe it needs more lube although I heard a little goes a long way and if you use the right type you'll probably never need to do it again.

On the bright side, the Edge Pro in the 2610e still seems fine.
 
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