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Quig’s Big “So You Got A New Bike” Recommendation Thread Of Doom

13K views 128 replies 15 participants last post by  noodles 
#1 ·
Alright, so you got a new bike. Right the fuck on, now you need to know what shit to buy for it without blowing up your savings account. I can't really help you there, but I can help make it a little less financially devastating, at least for a little while. :lol:

Shit you absolutely should get on day 1, regardless:

A CO2 inflator. Stick this in your tail bag, along with 2-3 CO2 cartridges. Much easier and faster inflating than a hand pump, and will save your ass. I only bring these on the road, because pumping up a 120 PSI tire with a hand pump can fuck off.

Amazon.com : Portland Design Works Shiny Object CO2 Inflator : Sports & Outdoors

Padded shorts. You want them. They're around $40, comfortable and durable. Use them, your ass will thank you and it will make things infinitely better for long rides.

For trail: Amazon.com: Canari Cyclewear Men's Mountain Canyon Gel Baggy Padded Cycling Short: Sports & Outdoors

For the road: Amazon.com : Canari Cyclewear Men's Velo Gel Padded Bike Short : Cycling Compression Shorts : Sports & Outdoors

You also want a multi-tool. Lighter and smaller is better, but you still need the basics. I really like this one. Don't get stuck somewhere and need to call a ride because you don't have an allen key with you. You'll end up breaking more shit because you tried to find a rock that was somewhere near 5mm wide to use instead.

Amazon.com: Crank Brothers Multi Bicycle Tool (10-Function, Silver): Sports & Outdoors

Light that shit up.

If you're road riding, get a tail light. They blink so that idiots in cars can see you. There lots of idiots out there, most of them have cars, and assume that none of them are expecting you. You can go cheap with any of the AA battery powered ones, but for $40 this one is USB rechargable and bright as hell.

Amazon.com : NiteRider Solas Tail Light : Bike Headlights : Sports & Outdoors

For the front, I really like the Lumina series from NiteRider. On the trail, I run the 750 on my helmet and the 350 on the bars. On the road I just use the 750. If I'm going to be riding road somewhere busy/urban, I'll run it in the daytime on strobe mode so that idiots coming at me can see me as well.

http://www.amazon.com/NiteRider-Lumina-750-Bike-Light/dp/B00LEWKHCE/

Don't buy a shitty pump.

Don't skimp on pumps. Seriously, get a good one and it will last you ages. If you're trail riding, get this one. When you're sweaty, dirty and covered in mosquitos trying to swap out that flat or air back up, you will be glad you did.

http://www.amazon.com/Lezyne-Micro-Floor-Drive-HV/dp/B005UZOJZ2

For everywhere else (in the car, at home) I use this. It's not very expensive and works really, really well.

http://www.amazon.com/Avenir-AirSource-2X-Floor-Pump/dp/B003OWPN0I/

Flat pedals for trail:

Non-bank breaking: http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-PD-MX80-Gravity-Pedals-2015/dp/B011KRSW1K

What I use: http://www.amazon.com/Spank-Spike-Platform-Pedals-Black/dp/B005KS1M5Y

Clipless for trail:

Without platforms: Amazon.com : Shimano XT PD-M780 Mountain Pedals : Bike Pedals : Sports & Outdoors

With: Amazon.com : Shimano XT PD-M785 Mountain Pedals : Bike Pedals : Sports & Outdoors

Pedals for your road bike are completely subjective. I use these:

http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-6800-Ultegra-Clipless-Pedals/dp/B00CTSJZFC

Spare derailleur hangers

You will break one. They're designed to fail first, so that the cheap $20 part breaks instead of your derailleur or your frame. Go here, find what number you need, and grab a couple. Amazon has someof them, or you can order direct.

http://wheelsmfg.com

Sit down, Junior.

Chances are the seat that came on your bike sucks. Seriously. Look at it. That thing was probably made for 110lb Italian guys that are built like horse racing jockeys. Everyone's ass is different, and my ass is not the same size as a 100lb Italian jockey. I really like the WTB Pure V. It's inexpensive, looks good and is comfortable. Yes, you can get something 10 grams lighter for $100 more, but if it feels like sitting on a 2x4 it's not worth a damn. Try one of these first.

http://www.amazon.com/WTB-Pure-Race-SE-Saddle/dp/B00BP1X7BM

Tires, tires, tires!

On the road, like 5150s, just buy Gatorskins. I put over 3,000 miles on a set of these on my road bike and never had a single flat. They are great - smooth, fast, durable. Everyone at my LBS uses them, and for a reason. Know what sucks? Flats. Know what sucks less than flats? The fraction of a percentage less rolling resistance you'll get with a lighter/thinner tire. Fuck flats. Get Gatorskins and pedal 1% harder.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001OC6CK0

On the trail I recommend Ardent EXOs for just about everyone. They come in different durability levels/compounds, and it all depends on how much you want to spend. I ride through a shitload of pointy rocks and roots, and never once had a sidewall rip on them in over 1000 miles of New England terrain.

http://www.amazon.com/Maxxis-Ardent-Folding-Bead-2-25-Inch/dp/B00AJZ908O/

Winter is coming

If you live somewhere cold, and don't have a fat bike, you can still cycle through the winter and destroy your adversaries in the spring. Get one of these, but don't buy it from Amazon. People sell them on Craigslist all the time, and they generally end up as dust collectors. My brother got one in mint condition for around $150. Road bike only (so you can't use your trail bike on them) but this thing is fantastic for the money. As a bonus, you can get a cadence sensor and a USB dongle and sign up for Zwift (VR riding) to get your Strava segment fix all winter long.

http://www.amazon.com/Kinetic-Kurt-Machine-Bicycle-Trainer/dp/B000BNCA0Y

If you decide you'll actually use it, I can't say enough good things about the 12lb flywheel add-on for it. It gives you more realistic spindown so you can coast more, and spin up quicker for sprints.

http://www.amazon.com/Kinetic-Kurt-Flywheel-12-Pound-Silver/dp/B003ZZ651A/

Track it with style.

Since this is the sort-of-budget thread, here's the best bang for your buck inexpensive GPS to get. The 500 kicks ass. Lots of stats, battery lasts forever, supports all the external goodies.

http://www.amazon.com/Garmin-Edge-Cycling-Neutral-Color/dp/B003L1CAFI/

But don't use the shitty elastic mounts that they come with. Drop $20 for peace of mind on a proper bar fly. These are especially important for the trail because you want that $200+ delicate electronic device out of harm's way. Get it over your stem and not out in front, so that if you go OTB you don't take it with you.

Road: http://www.amazon.com/SRAM-00-7918-020-000-Road-Computer-Mount/dp/B009P3MOF2/

Trail: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DQVMHLA

Don't overtorque things like a tool.

Just about everything on your bike is specced for 5Nm of torque. Toruque wrenches are expensive. This is not. It's $22 and will prevent you from overtorquing bolts and breaking shit.

http://www.amazon.com/Ritchey-6-Bit-Bicycle-Torque-Key/dp/B00SU86GCK/

Graphs n' Stuff

Lastly, don't forget to sign up on Strava and join the MG group so we can all give you kudos. Stats make everything better.

https://www.strava.com/clubs/mgdotorg
 
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#6 ·
Short version: Don't get the shitty ones. They are cheap for a reason, and that reason is because they're shitty. If I hop on a cheap trainer, I could probably average 30 miles an hour for 2 hours. I'm not even kidding. They get your legs moving but that's about it.

Longer version: The Kinetic ones feel like you're actually riding on the road. Realistic feel + spindown/spinup = better workout = you work harder = you will be faster and fitter. Plus they're infinitely more stable. I can stand up and sprint as hard as I can on my Kinetic and the thing doesn't move.
 
#9 ·
^ Aye, also keep in mind if you're doing any kind of regimen, eg "I'm going to ride on the trainer for 10 miles", and you're spinning at ludicrous speed on a cheap trainer, you aren't really riding 10 miles. Your wheel may spin 10 miles, but the energy output required to do that on the road is much, much higher.

I find the Kurt to be pretty damn close, especially since it's a "cheap" $350-400 trainer. (it's cycling, remember?) I average around 18-20 on the trainer, and I average 17-18 on the road with climbs, so it's close enough.

This is a higher end trainer:

Indoor Bike Trainer â€" Wahoo Fitness KICKR Power Trainer

This is a higher-higher end trainer:

Amazon.com : Tacx i-Genius Virtual Reality Trainer : Bike Trainers : Sports & Outdoors
 
#14 ·
Good lord, I love that first review. Long, thought out, comprehensive, then:

"I have only had it for a week and have ridden about 25 miles but so far so good."

You bought a $1500 trainer, have done "a few rides" on it, and in a week's time logged 25 miles? Jesus. :lol:

MFB, you really won't need a trainer for a couple months anyway - if it's nice out, and it will be through mid-October most likely, you'll be WAY better off riding outside. A trainer is a poor imitation of the real thing, you know?
 
#10 ·
Yeah, immediately after I posted that I started doing comparisons on trainers and holy shit do they get expensive :lol: Like, unnaturally expensive. I didn't realize the Kurt's were so expensive but given how much I have saved I should be able to afford one used or something close to that price.
 
#11 ·
I'll second that co2 inflator.
I bought one and had to use it yesterday for the first time on my road bike. Worked awesome and filled that tire nice and hard in about 5 seconds, making my tire change pretty damned fast.
 
#16 ·
I was trying to make a budget list (lol, cycling budget!), and those are actually being discontinued. If you like 'em you may want to grab another set soonish, because according to my LBS they won't be around much longer.
 
#18 ·
Do they make a trainer like the one Chris described that works with a MTB? I've got my old rigid frame '95 GT that I would totally turn into my winter trainer.
 
#20 ·
Hmm, I'm gonna have to figure out what I have, then, because there is one on CL for $175 right now. I'm digging your idea of loading routes and letting it change the resistance.
 
#22 ·
I picked up the exact saddle Chris recommended about two months back, and it's the goods. :yesway:
 
#26 ·
I imagine cycling shorts are a much bigger deal than the type of jersey you wear right? I have some basic sweat wicking workout stuff that's not bad, it does get a little clingy after about 10 miles (obviously). Not to mention everything I've seen Amazon looks incredibly douchey and ridiculously overpriced.
 
#29 ·
I *hate* putting things in clothing pockets when I ride. Literally everything goes in my hydration pack pockets.
 
#28 ·
It's also worth noting that you're out moving in the wind as opposed to being on a stationary bike, you'll be more comfortable. You'll sweat the same amount, but there's air moving. Which means you can work harder. :flex:
 
#31 ·
couple of hints from my riding days...

carry a couple of extra chain links, master link and a chain tool with you. Broken chains blow, especially when you are miles from home and especially suck if you are out in the boonies trail riding and miles from your car.

A small bottle of loc tite can come in handy as well... (Shimano SPD shoe cleats used to come loose easily if you didnt have loc tite on the cleat bolts)
 
#34 ·
carry a couple of extra chain links, master link and a chain tool with you. Broken chains blow, especially when you are miles from home and especially suck if you are out in the boonies trail riding and miles from your car.
This. The one time I didn't bring my chain breaker my chain broke about 5 miles from my truck. I was cranking pretty hard too when it exploded. Which brings me to another point... knee pads. :lol: Racked my knee on my stem so gaddamn hard when that happened. :lol:
If you do any off road stuff, at least some nice shin guards are a good investment.
 
#32 ·
I've done a shit ton of hiking, so having a dinky daypack on my back feels like nothing. I can also pack all the power foods you mentioned in your century thread, rather than looking for it on the go, as well as carrying up to three liters of water. I hate reaching for bottles; I like having the hydrotube right by my head. I also have a bike multitool, tire tool, CO2 kit, spare tube, and backpacker first aid kit in there.

The drawback is back sweat, although the cold water does help keep my back cool. Well, and it's probably not very aerodynamic, since I don't have a cycling specific hydropack.
 
#33 ·
I preferred putting stuff in the the camelback also. I primarily rode offroad and when i crashed had a habit of having stuff go flying. ( I lost so many freaking spedo/computers :( )

I got one of those expandable under seat pouches that would hold a spare tube and tools. I also carried a water bottle and had a few other things like a small flashlight, power bars, etc.

I typically ended up using the second water bottle to wash some of the mud/dirt off of my legs after the ride... before getting into the car.
 
#42 ·
Btw I was looking at cadence sensors.
It's something I would like to keep track of. I may pick one up cause they're relatively inexpensive. Which one are you using man?
 
#46 ·
IMO I'd wait and get a proper cycling GPS with a heart rate monitor first. If you get that Wahoo thing and get a Garmin later, you won't be able to use the two together.

...And eventually you'll want a Garmin, because it never ends. :lol: Having the stats on your handlebars is awesome, along with not having to worry about phone battery life.
 
#48 ·
IMO I'd wait and get a proper cycling GPS with a heart rate monitor first. If you get that Wahoo thing and get a Garmin later, you won't be able to use the two together.

...And eventually you'll want a Garmin, because it never ends. :lol: Having the stats on your handlebars is awesome, along with not having to worry about phone battery life.
Yeah i guess that's probably in order.
Unfortunately, until I get this move over with, I gotta hold off on any large purchases.
Movers are $200 an hour lol
But if I'm almost 40, and have to move myself? I've done something wrong in life lol. I am not gonna lift and move my heavy furniture myself, or burden people I know begging for help. Fuck that.
Anyhow, i originally was just gonna grab a cheap $20-30 unit just to keep track, then toss it in the garbage for a better one
 
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