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Quig’s Big “So You Got A New Bike” Recommendation Thread Of Doom

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#1 ·
Alright, so you got a new bike. Right the fuck on, now you need to know what shit to buy for it without blowing up your savings account. I can't really help you there, but I can help make it a little less financially devastating, at least for a little while. :lol:

Shit you absolutely should get on day 1, regardless:

A CO2 inflator. Stick this in your tail bag, along with 2-3 CO2 cartridges. Much easier and faster inflating than a hand pump, and will save your ass. I only bring these on the road, because pumping up a 120 PSI tire with a hand pump can fuck off.

Amazon.com : Portland Design Works Shiny Object CO2 Inflator : Sports & Outdoors

Padded shorts. You want them. They're around $40, comfortable and durable. Use them, your ass will thank you and it will make things infinitely better for long rides.

For trail: Amazon.com: Canari Cyclewear Men's Mountain Canyon Gel Baggy Padded Cycling Short: Sports & Outdoors

For the road: Amazon.com : Canari Cyclewear Men's Velo Gel Padded Bike Short : Cycling Compression Shorts : Sports & Outdoors

You also want a multi-tool. Lighter and smaller is better, but you still need the basics. I really like this one. Don't get stuck somewhere and need to call a ride because you don't have an allen key with you. You'll end up breaking more shit because you tried to find a rock that was somewhere near 5mm wide to use instead.

Amazon.com: Crank Brothers Multi Bicycle Tool (10-Function, Silver): Sports & Outdoors

Light that shit up.

If you're road riding, get a tail light. They blink so that idiots in cars can see you. There lots of idiots out there, most of them have cars, and assume that none of them are expecting you. You can go cheap with any of the AA battery powered ones, but for $40 this one is USB rechargable and bright as hell.

Amazon.com : NiteRider Solas Tail Light : Bike Headlights : Sports & Outdoors

For the front, I really like the Lumina series from NiteRider. On the trail, I run the 750 on my helmet and the 350 on the bars. On the road I just use the 750. If I'm going to be riding road somewhere busy/urban, I'll run it in the daytime on strobe mode so that idiots coming at me can see me as well.

http://www.amazon.com/NiteRider-Lumina-750-Bike-Light/dp/B00LEWKHCE/

Don't buy a shitty pump.

Don't skimp on pumps. Seriously, get a good one and it will last you ages. If you're trail riding, get this one. When you're sweaty, dirty and covered in mosquitos trying to swap out that flat or air back up, you will be glad you did.

http://www.amazon.com/Lezyne-Micro-Floor-Drive-HV/dp/B005UZOJZ2

For everywhere else (in the car, at home) I use this. It's not very expensive and works really, really well.

http://www.amazon.com/Avenir-AirSource-2X-Floor-Pump/dp/B003OWPN0I/

Flat pedals for trail:

Non-bank breaking: http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-PD-MX80-Gravity-Pedals-2015/dp/B011KRSW1K

What I use: http://www.amazon.com/Spank-Spike-Platform-Pedals-Black/dp/B005KS1M5Y

Clipless for trail:

Without platforms: Amazon.com : Shimano XT PD-M780 Mountain Pedals : Bike Pedals : Sports & Outdoors

With: Amazon.com : Shimano XT PD-M785 Mountain Pedals : Bike Pedals : Sports & Outdoors

Pedals for your road bike are completely subjective. I use these:

http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-6800-Ultegra-Clipless-Pedals/dp/B00CTSJZFC

Spare derailleur hangers

You will break one. They're designed to fail first, so that the cheap $20 part breaks instead of your derailleur or your frame. Go here, find what number you need, and grab a couple. Amazon has someof them, or you can order direct.

http://wheelsmfg.com

Sit down, Junior.

Chances are the seat that came on your bike sucks. Seriously. Look at it. That thing was probably made for 110lb Italian guys that are built like horse racing jockeys. Everyone's ass is different, and my ass is not the same size as a 100lb Italian jockey. I really like the WTB Pure V. It's inexpensive, looks good and is comfortable. Yes, you can get something 10 grams lighter for $100 more, but if it feels like sitting on a 2x4 it's not worth a damn. Try one of these first.

http://www.amazon.com/WTB-Pure-Race-SE-Saddle/dp/B00BP1X7BM

Tires, tires, tires!

On the road, like 5150s, just buy Gatorskins. I put over 3,000 miles on a set of these on my road bike and never had a single flat. They are great - smooth, fast, durable. Everyone at my LBS uses them, and for a reason. Know what sucks? Flats. Know what sucks less than flats? The fraction of a percentage less rolling resistance you'll get with a lighter/thinner tire. Fuck flats. Get Gatorskins and pedal 1% harder.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001OC6CK0

On the trail I recommend Ardent EXOs for just about everyone. They come in different durability levels/compounds, and it all depends on how much you want to spend. I ride through a shitload of pointy rocks and roots, and never once had a sidewall rip on them in over 1000 miles of New England terrain.

http://www.amazon.com/Maxxis-Ardent-Folding-Bead-2-25-Inch/dp/B00AJZ908O/

Winter is coming

If you live somewhere cold, and don't have a fat bike, you can still cycle through the winter and destroy your adversaries in the spring. Get one of these, but don't buy it from Amazon. People sell them on Craigslist all the time, and they generally end up as dust collectors. My brother got one in mint condition for around $150. Road bike only (so you can't use your trail bike on them) but this thing is fantastic for the money. As a bonus, you can get a cadence sensor and a USB dongle and sign up for Zwift (VR riding) to get your Strava segment fix all winter long.

http://www.amazon.com/Kinetic-Kurt-Machine-Bicycle-Trainer/dp/B000BNCA0Y

If you decide you'll actually use it, I can't say enough good things about the 12lb flywheel add-on for it. It gives you more realistic spindown so you can coast more, and spin up quicker for sprints.

http://www.amazon.com/Kinetic-Kurt-Flywheel-12-Pound-Silver/dp/B003ZZ651A/

Track it with style.

Since this is the sort-of-budget thread, here's the best bang for your buck inexpensive GPS to get. The 500 kicks ass. Lots of stats, battery lasts forever, supports all the external goodies.

http://www.amazon.com/Garmin-Edge-Cycling-Neutral-Color/dp/B003L1CAFI/

But don't use the shitty elastic mounts that they come with. Drop $20 for peace of mind on a proper bar fly. These are especially important for the trail because you want that $200+ delicate electronic device out of harm's way. Get it over your stem and not out in front, so that if you go OTB you don't take it with you.

Road: http://www.amazon.com/SRAM-00-7918-020-000-Road-Computer-Mount/dp/B009P3MOF2/

Trail: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DQVMHLA

Don't overtorque things like a tool.

Just about everything on your bike is specced for 5Nm of torque. Toruque wrenches are expensive. This is not. It's $22 and will prevent you from overtorquing bolts and breaking shit.

http://www.amazon.com/Ritchey-6-Bit-Bicycle-Torque-Key/dp/B00SU86GCK/

Graphs n' Stuff

Lastly, don't forget to sign up on Strava and join the MG group so we can all give you kudos. Stats make everything better.

https://www.strava.com/clubs/mgdotorg
 
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#89 ·
Also, unrelatedly, the only additional thing I'll chime in on (as I've already mentioned my love for Speedplay Frogs, aka the best clipless pedals ever), is this:

Sit down, Junior.

Chances are the seat that came on your bike sucks. Seriously. Look at it. That thing was probably made for 110lb Italian guys that are built like horse racing jockeys. Everyone's ass is different, and my ass is not the same size as a 100lb Italian jockey. I really like the WTB Pure V. It's inexpensive, looks good and is comfortable. Yes, you can get something 10 grams lighter for $100 more, but if it feels like sitting on a 2x4 it's not worth a damn. Try one of these first.

Amazon.com : WTB Pure V Race SE Saddle - BLACK : Bike Saddles And Seats : Sports & Outdoors
Saddle choice is a really personal thing, and has a lot more in play (as even Chris will admit, when not going for comic value here) than weight. As it happens, based on any number of factors but probably including bone structure, muscle structure, and simply being used to it, I tend to LIKE slim road saddles. My mountain bike has a WTB seat similar to the one Chris rides with for no other reason than it came stock and I didn't dislike it enough to change it, but I'm definitely way more comfortable on the saddle on my Allez, which is a narrow, thin road saddle. The jury is still out on the saddle on my Tarmac, but I absolutely loved the Fizik Antares saddle on the Cervelo I test-rode, so if I don't find myself getting on with the Specialized saddle after a couple rides I'm going to grab one of those to replace it, which as it happens is I believe the exact same saddle that Chris was thinking of when he wrote this. :lol:

Most good bike shops can give you a hand finding a saddle that fits you well - Fizik actually has some sort of measurement contraption, which I believe my LBS has - but don't immediately discount a saddle because it looks "thin" at first. Thick and padded doesn't necessarily equate with comfort. Give it a shot, and then talk to the guys at your bike shop and see if they can help you find something that works a little better for you. Bigger picture, saddles aren't THAT expensive, compared to the bike you're going to spend hours sitting on it on.

Disclaimer - I AM italian, so maybe it IS as simple as that. :lol:
 
#97 ·
Also, unrelatedly, the only additional thing I'll chime in on (as I've already mentioned my love for Speedplay Frogs, aka the best clipless pedals ever), is this:

Saddle choice is a really personal thing, and has a lot more in play (as even Chris will admit, when not going for comic value here) than weight. As it happens, based on any number of factors but probably including bone structure, muscle structure, and simply being used to it, I tend to LIKE slim road saddles. My mountain bike has a WTB seat similar to the one Chris rides with for no other reason than it came stock and I didn't dislike it enough to change it, but I'm definitely way more comfortable on the saddle on my Allez, which is a narrow, thin road saddle. The jury is still out on the saddle on my Tarmac, but I absolutely loved the Fizik Antares saddle on the Cervelo I test-rode, so if I don't find myself getting on with the Specialized saddle after a couple rides I'm going to grab one of those to replace it, which as it happens is I believe the exact same saddle that Chris was thinking of when he wrote this. :lol:

Most good bike shops can give you a hand finding a saddle that fits you well - Fizik actually has some sort of measurement contraption, which I believe my LBS has - but don't immediately discount a saddle because it looks "thin" at first. Thick and padded doesn't necessarily equate with comfort. Give it a shot, and then talk to the guys at your bike shop and see if they can help you find something that works a little better for you. Bigger picture, saddles aren't THAT expensive, compared to the bike you're going to spend hours sitting on it on.

Disclaimer - I AM italian, so maybe it IS as simple as that. :lol:
Actually, since this is a thread for new riders, I wasn't thinking about the Fizik, because new riders don't generally buy bikes that come with $150 seats dude. And I'm the one that told you about the freakin' "measurement contraption". :lol:

I know you're excited about your kickass new bike, but at least log a few rides on it before you turn into Crooks. :crooks:
 
#91 ·
That one isn't currently on their list of supported trainers. If riding on Zwift isn't a critical focus, it'll probably be fine - it may not have a realistic degree of resistance for road conditions, but you can still get a workout; just hop on and blast for an hour and you'll see results, but don't expect distance or speed to be realistically related to your power workout.

If you do want to be on Zwift, I haven't checked exhaustively, but I suspect this may be yur cheapest option for a new trainer:

Nashbar Fluid Trainer

Nashbar Fluid trainer. On the supported list of Zwift trainers, $149.99 full price, and they're running a 20% off, discount in cart sale right now which should cut that down to $120, only $30 more than the one you're looking at. I can't recommend the trainer from personal experience, but it has a Zwift power curve modeled for it so you can use it on Zwift. :shrug:
 
#98 ·
I know MFB asked this a few pages back but really didn't get an answer. I just got a road bike and am currently using double-sided pedals that I originally got for my mountain bike (flats on one side, clipless on the other). Just wearing running shoes when I ride now.

But I know that I will want to switch to clipless at some time in the near future. I saw what Chris recommended for road pedals and I'll probably look into that or something similar. But I'm wondering about shoes.

I bought a pair of Shimano shoes for MTB (but really haven't used them much at all). They use two bolts to connect the cleat to the shoe. Don't road bike cleats use 3 bolts? So I wouldn't be able to use these.

Any recommendations? Anything to stay away from?
 
#100 ·
The MTB pedals I linked are SPD. The road ones you're thinking of with the 3-bolts are SPD-SL. There's no reason you can't use SPD pedals on the road, it's just that most light/aero/more breathable road-specific shoes tend to be SPD-SL. There are SPD road shoes out there though.
 
#101 ·
FWIW I use MTB pedals on my road bike, and use the same pair of shoes. I use pedals with a platform off road, since it makes it easier to get moving on rough terrain.

I use Time pedals and cleats, and am probably the only one here who does. Shimano and Crank Brothers are both more popular, but I have problems clipping into Shimano and have too many friends who keep breaking Crank Brothers.
 
#103 ·
Thanks for the suggestions. I really haven't used my clipless shoes/pedals on the MTB because my trails are so narrow & I have a good chance of smashing into something if I'm locked in (heck, many times I wipe out w/platforms). I'll try out my shoes w/the double-sided pedals (platform on one side/clipless on the other) that I have (on the road bike), then if I get comfortable being locked in, I'll look at the Shimano clipless-only pedals.

In looking on Amazon I saw reviews where people said they bought different kinds of cleats - more of an "easy-out" Shimano cleat. I'll probably get those and compare between those and what I already have.
 
#104 ·
In looking on Amazon I saw reviews where people said they bought different kinds of cleats - more of an "easy-out" Shimano cleat. I'll probably get those and compare between those and what I already have.
With Shimano, ease of unclipping is a feature of the pedal and not the cleat. Typically, the pedal has a tension adjustment.
 
#108 ·
There are a few kinds, and they are all SPD. There are the ones that are actually labeled "Easy off":

Amazon.com : Shimano SPD easy-off pedalset (Design: with bolts for PD-M858) : Replacement Cycling Cleats : Sports & Outdoors

Then two types of more-normal-looking SPDs. The SH51 which is the standard one that most people use:

Amazon.com : Shimano SH51 SPD Cleats : Replacement Cycling Cleats : Sports & Outdoors

And the SH56 that are a lot easier to get in and out of. Not good for MTB in my opinion because they're too loose, but a decent starter cleat set for people just getting into riding clipless.

Amazon.com : SHIMANO SH56 Multi Release SPD Bike Cleats : Sports & Outdoors

I use the SH51's on my cyclocross bike, and on my MTBs I run flat pedals because clipless is for filthy commies and dirty pirate hookers. :vince:
 
#110 ·
The SH51's are the ones I have. I just ordered the SH56's. Like I said, I'll try them and use the ones I like the best.

Yes, I know about the tension adjustment. When I got my trainer I originally put my MTB on it (with a slick tire). I put my dbl-sided pedals on that, just to test them out. I cranked the tension way back so it was somewhat easy in-easy out.

So I'm not "scared" to try the clipless - I just want to try them out with the least chance of falling over locked-in or looking like a tool trying to get unlocked. Once I get used to it I'm sure it'll be a piece 'o cake.
 
#115 ·
Just have to chime in about the Gatorskins for road bike tires. I got a flat w/my stock Bontrager tires last week - second flat since I've had the bike. No idea what I ran over - didn't see anything. Grabbed the CO2 inflator and let a little air in the tube to see if I indeed had a hole - I did. Put in a new tube & used up the rest of the CO2, which wasn't much. Grabbed the next cartridge and started screwing the inflator & cartridge together. Must have moved too slow or made a bad puncture or something but ALL the CO2 just blew out of the damn thing. So no pump & hardly any air in the tire - not enough to ride (I tried - the tire just squished around). Had to call the wife to get me (was 10 miles from town).

Got home - said "F this" and put on new tubes and Gatorskins on front and back. Went for a 20 mile ride last night. I swear these things are faster (have a faster compound) than my stock tires - it just felt easier to get up to speed & maintain speed, plus just go faster in general. They feel VERY durable compared to my stock tires.
 
#117 ·
Got home - said "F this" and put on new tubes and Gatorskins on front and back. Went for a 20 mile ride last night. I swear these things are faster (have a faster compound) than my stock tires - it just felt easier to get up to speed & maintain speed, plus just go faster in general. They feel VERY durable compared to my stock tires.
Gatorskins are probably faster than your stock tires - they're very heavy for road tires, but Continental makes very good stuff and I don't doubt they roll very well (I use a way-less reinvorced version of that same tire that I've been very happy with).

Most people who don't like them complain about the weight (which is the price of the puncture protection) and the harsher ride you get from the heavy reinforcement. I've always thought the later was kind of BS (though, after swapping wheels, I'm no longer convinced - there's a HUGE difference in how the bike "feels" now), but for the former, I wouldn't overthink the extra weight if what you're doing is going out for rides for fitness, rather than trying to squeeze every last fraction of speed out of your legs. You'll spend more time actually riding and less time fixing the occasional flat, and while no tire is flat-proof, they definitely hold up better than virtually anything else out there - they're very popular with guys who commute on road bikes around here, and that's kind of the epitome of trying to maximize your time not fixing stuff while riding. :lol:
 
#116 ·
Bontrager makes a whole bunch of absolute crap. I bought four tubes from a shop once, and all failed within a hundred miles; the valve just separated from the rest of the tube. I've had plenty of friends with their MTB tires get sidewall tears left and right, where Maxxis and Schwalbe tires hold up just fine. I had the zipper on a saddlebag that refused to stay on track and finally broke after about three months. I simply won't buy a damn thing that says Bontrager anymore.
 
#119 ·
Yep, the Boeshield is what I put on my chain on Saturday - that stuff is NICE.



Yes, more and more I'm getting tired of Bontrager stuff. The stock tires that came on my MTB - just a boring square tread & I wore off the center nubs last summer. I'm keeping them as a backup emergency set of tires but I've gone the Maxxis route (first Ignitors and now Ardents) and not going back. I've been using Continental tubes for the road bike - I got rid of the stock tubes - don't like them.
 
#118 ·
Rereading this thread, I'm trying to think of anything else that I'd add to Chris's (exhaustive) list. And, there isn't much, and most of what I can chime in on is for longer rides.

Chain Lube. Your local shop probably won't let you leave with a brand-spankin'-new bike if you're a new rider without some, but just in case... I've been using Boeshield T9 dry formula chain lube for a while now, simply because back in 2014 on our first annual Boston to PTown ride where I hadn't really been riding and forgot to lube my chain before leaving and it was loud as shit, that's what the bike shop we rode by had. Don't do what I did. :lol: I've also used Pedro's in the past, and generally like their stuff. Chain lube is cheap, and for a dry formula lube like this you're probably good for maybe 200 miles between applications, though trying to get in the habit of relubing your chain every couple rides regardless of mileage is probably a good idea.

Chamois Cream. This is definitely in the "long rides" category, so if you're doing 20-30 miles at a time, don't worry so much about it. But, if you're gearing up for your first century, or a couple longer back-to-back rides, grab some. I've been using Chamois Butt'r (they pretty much all have names with puns like that, don't ask) since I finally bit the bullet and bought some, after my butt was more sore from chaffing on my 150 miler than it was from the saddle. :lol: Especially on hot rides where you're sweating a lot, if you're going at it for more than a couple hours, you'll be grateful for this stuff.

Food. If I'm going out for more than a hour and a half or so, I'll always have at least SOMETHING in a jersey pocket. You can pack "normal" stuff like granola bars, or specialty energy food - I'm partial to Gu packets, as well as Cliff Shot Block energy gels (margarita flavor, clearly). I've found that on relatively low intensity riding, I can eat pretty much anything and be fine (Chris has given me shit for that all over this thread, lol), but really high intensity stuff, if I'm really hammering and try to eat "real" food, I get pretty sick to my stomach and have a lot of indigestion. Gu packets are a godsend for "race-like" riding, where they have enough calories to keep you going, but are super easy to digest and don't take up much space in your stomach (or jersey). Pro tip: if you ever do a large organized charity ride, like the Pan Mass Challenge or the MS150 or something similar, they'll probably be hjanding these out at the water stops. Grab a couple extras then to stock up.

A couple bucks. If you bike past a couple kids running a lemonade stand, and DON'T stop and buy lemonade, you're not fit to be a human being. :yesway:
 
#121 ·
Chain Lube. Your local shop probably won't let you leave with a brand-spankin'-new bike if you're a new rider without some, but just in case... I've been using Boeshield T9 dry formula chain lube for a while now, simply because back in 2014 on our first annual Boston to PTown ride where I hadn't really been riding and forgot to lube my chain before leaving and it was loud as shit, that's what the bike shop we rode by had. Don't do what I did. :lol: I've also used Pedro's in the past, and generally like their stuff. Chain lube is cheap, and for a dry formula lube like this you're probably good for maybe 200 miles between applications, though trying to get in the habit of relubing your chain every couple rides regardless of mileage is probably a good idea.
Adding to this...

Unless you're riding in awful conditions--a super muddy CX or MTB race, for example--then do NOT buy wet chain lube. The stuff attracts all sorts of gunk, which in turn tear up your entire drive train over time. I got some for the 13 hour MTB endurance race I did earlier this year, since they were calling for rain and sleet, so I picked some up. After the race, I disassembled my entire drivetrain and stripped it all off with degreaser, which is what you're supposed to do with wet lube.

If you're just riding your bike on dry road conditions, never more than 20-30 miles at a go, then I'd recommend using chain wax instead. It wears off quicker, but it doesn't attract any dust, debris, or grime. It's what I've been putting on the wife's bike, since she's riding short road rides on well-maintained park roads and neighborhood streets. Basically, I rather re-lube her chain every couple of rides than tear apart her drivetrain once a month.

I use the Finish Line stuff:



 
#123 ·
Yeah, I have a KS LEV Integra. It's a real smooth actuation, and routes internally. I've had it for about nine months, and now it's sagging by a couple of inches and worsening. I've been reading it's a common complaint, and the way to fix it is to replace the $80 cartridge. Not sure I want to recommend it, but I have heard that they all eventually do that. I think the Specialized and Giant posts don't have as smooth as an actuation (they tend to be jerkier/more violent when they raise), but Chris' Giant post has lasted a long longer without maintenance than mine, so that might be my next post.
 
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#125 ·
Wirelessly posted :)dio:)

I've avoided pretty much all Vittoria tires because of the price. They're consistently $10-20 more per tire.

I have a buddy who said that his beef with Gators is they dry rot before you can run then down to the wear indicators. I fail to see how that level of durability is an issue. :lol:
 
#126 ·
:lol:

Well, the Vittoria is more expensive, but they're popular for a reason. I mean, a Mesa is going to set you back more than a Marshall too, you know? Oversimplification, but you know what I mean.
 
#127 ·
Wirelessly posted :)dio:)

That argument would have worked better if Mesa wasn't the most durable amp brand in existence. :lol:
 
#129 · (Edited)
Wirelessly posted :)dio:)

Yeah, my buddy has one on his Trance, and while better than the Specialized post, it still feels like an on/off switch. I had a really difficult time feeling the transition point on the switch and controlling the final height of the post. Maybe he has too much air in it?

The Specialized was awful, felt cheap. You could definitely feel the resistance in it when it moved up, like it was sticking slightly in spots.
 
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