Quig’s Big “So You Got A New Bike” Recommendation Thread Of Doom
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Thread: Quig’s Big “So You Got A New Bike” Recommendation Thread Of Doom

  1. #1


    Join Date: Sep 2008
    Location: Boston, MA
    ME: Suhr Modern
    Rig: Fractal / Kemper / 5150

    iTrader: 34 (100%)

    Quig’s Big “So You Got A New Bike” Recommendation Thread Of Doom

    Alright, so you got a new bike. Right the fuck on, now you need to know what shit to buy for it without blowing up your savings account. I can’t really help you there, but I can help make it a little less financially devastating, at least for a little while.

    Shit you absolutely should get on day 1, regardless:

    A CO2 inflator. Stick this in your tail bag, along with 2-3 CO2 cartridges. Much easier and faster inflating than a hand pump, and will save your ass. I only bring these on the road, because pumping up a 120 PSI tire with a hand pump can fuck off.

    Amazon.com : Portland Design Works Shiny Object CO2 Inflator : Sports & Outdoors

    Padded shorts. You want them. They’re around $40, comfortable and durable. Use them, your ass will thank you and it will make things infinitely better for long rides.

    For trail: Amazon.com: Canari Cyclewear Men's Mountain Canyon Gel Baggy Padded Cycling Short: Sports & Outdoors

    For the road: Amazon.com : Canari Cyclewear Men's Velo Gel Padded Bike Short : Cycling Compression Shorts : Sports & Outdoors

    You also want a multi-tool. Lighter and smaller is better, but you still need the basics. I really like this one. Don’t get stuck somewhere and need to call a ride because you don’t have an allen key with you. You’ll end up breaking more shit because you tried to find a rock that was somewhere near 5mm wide to use instead.

    Amazon.com: Crank Brothers Multi Bicycle Tool (10-Function, Silver): Sports & Outdoors

    Light that shit up.

    If you’re road riding, get a tail light. They blink so that idiots in cars can see you. There lots of idiots out there, most of them have cars, and assume that none of them are expecting you. You can go cheap with any of the AA battery powered ones, but for $40 this one is USB rechargable and bright as hell.

    Amazon.com : NiteRider Solas Tail Light : Bike Headlights : Sports & Outdoors

    For the front, I really like the Lumina series from NiteRider. On the trail, I run the 750 on my helmet and the 350 on the bars. On the road I just use the 750. If I’m going to be riding road somewhere busy/urban, I’ll run it in the daytime on strobe mode so that idiots coming at me can see me as well.

    http://www.amazon.com/NiteRider-Lumi...dp/B00LEWKHCE/

    Don’t buy a shitty pump.

    Don’t skimp on pumps. Seriously, get a good one and it will last you ages. If you’re trail riding, get this one. When you’re sweaty, dirty and covered in mosquitos trying to swap out that flat or air back up, you will be glad you did.

    http://www.amazon.com/Lezyne-Micro-F.../dp/B005UZOJZ2

    For everywhere else (in the car, at home) I use this. It’s not very expensive and works really, really well.

    http://www.amazon.com/Avenir-AirSour...dp/B003OWPN0I/

    Flat pedals for trail:

    Non-bank breaking: http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-PD-MX8.../dp/B011KRSW1K

    What I use: http://www.amazon.com/Spank-Spike-Pl.../dp/B005KS1M5Y

    Clipless for trail:

    Without platforms: Amazon.com : Shimano XT PD-M780 Mountain Pedals : Bike Pedals : Sports & Outdoors

    With: Amazon.com : Shimano XT PD-M785 Mountain Pedals : Bike Pedals : Sports & Outdoors

    Pedals for your road bike are completely subjective. I use these:

    http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-6800-U.../dp/B00CTSJZFC

    Spare derailleur hangers

    You will break one. They’re designed to fail first, so that the cheap $20 part breaks instead of your derailleur or your frame. Go here, find what number you need, and grab a couple. Amazon has someof them, or you can order direct.

    http://wheelsmfg.com

    Sit down, Junior.

    Chances are the seat that came on your bike sucks. Seriously. Look at it. That thing was probably made for 110lb Italian guys that are built like horse racing jockeys. Everyone’s ass is different, and my ass is not the same size as a 100lb Italian jockey. I really like the WTB Pure V. It’s inexpensive, looks good and is comfortable. Yes, you can get something 10 grams lighter for $100 more, but if it feels like sitting on a 2x4 it’s not worth a damn. Try one of these first.

    http://www.amazon.com/WTB-Pure-Race-.../dp/B00BP1X7BM

    Tires, tires, tires!

    On the road, like 5150s, just buy Gatorskins. I put over 3,000 miles on a set of these on my road bike and never had a single flat. They are great - smooth, fast, durable. Everyone at my LBS uses them, and for a reason. Know what sucks? Flats. Know what sucks less than flats? The fraction of a percentage less rolling resistance you’ll get with a lighter/thinner tire. Fuck flats. Get Gatorskins and pedal 1% harder.

    http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001OC6CK0

    On the trail I recommend Ardent EXOs for just about everyone. They come in different durability levels/compounds, and it all depends on how much you want to spend. I ride through a shitload of pointy rocks and roots, and never once had a sidewall rip on them in over 1000 miles of New England terrain.

    http://www.amazon.com/Maxxis-Ardent-...dp/B00AJZ908O/

    Winter is coming

    If you live somewhere cold, and don’t have a fat bike, you can still cycle through the winter and destroy your adversaries in the spring. Get one of these, but don’t buy it from Amazon. People sell them on Craigslist all the time, and they generally end up as dust collectors. My brother got one in mint condition for around $150. Road bike only (so you can’t use your trail bike on them) but this thing is fantastic for the money. As a bonus, you can get a cadence sensor and a USB dongle and sign up for Zwift (VR riding) to get your Strava segment fix all winter long.

    http://www.amazon.com/Kinetic-Kurt-M.../dp/B000BNCA0Y

    If you decide you’ll actually use it, I can’t say enough good things about the 12lb flywheel add-on for it. It gives you more realistic spindown so you can coast more, and spin up quicker for sprints.

    http://www.amazon.com/Kinetic-Kurt-F...dp/B003ZZ651A/

    Track it with style.

    Since this is the sort-of-budget thread, here’s the best bang for your buck inexpensive GPS to get. The 500 kicks ass. Lots of stats, battery lasts forever, supports all the external goodies.

    http://www.amazon.com/Garmin-Edge-Cy...dp/B003L1CAFI/

    But don’t use the shitty elastic mounts that they come with. Drop $20 for peace of mind on a proper bar fly. These are especially important for the trail because you want that $200+ delicate electronic device out of harm’s way. Get it over your stem and not out in front, so that if you go OTB you don’t take it with you.

    Road: http://www.amazon.com/SRAM-00-7918-0...dp/B009P3MOF2/

    Trail: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DQVMHLA

    Don’t overtorque things like a tool.

    Just about everything on your bike is specced for 5Nm of torque. Toruque wrenches are expensive. This is not. It’s $22 and will prevent you from overtorquing bolts and breaking shit.

    http://www.amazon.com/Ritchey-6-Bit-...dp/B00SU86GCK/

    Graphs n’ Stuff

    Lastly, don’t forget to sign up on Strava and join the MG group so we can all give you kudos. Stats make everything better.

    https://www.strava.com/clubs/mgdotorg

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  4. #2


    Join Date: Oct 2008
    Location: Vancouver, Canada
    ME: Sherman 8 String
    MB: Dingwall ABI 6 String
    Rig: Axe-FX Ultra

    iTrader: 2 (100%)

    Preach it to 'em, Quiggles.

  5. #3


    Join Date: Sep 2008
    Location: Boston, MA
    ME: Suhr Modern
    Rig: Fractal / Kemper / 5150

    iTrader: 34 (100%)

    Feel free to chime in. I seem to have spread my bike lust to MG like Crooks spread the clap back in the day, and got tired of re-linking things.

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  7. #4


    Join Date: Sep 2008
    Location: Santa Clara, CA
    ME: Rich Mahogany
    MA: Godin A6 Ultra
    MB: SR500
    Rig: Massive/Boobies

    iTrader: 16 (100%)

    Good shit.

    Also, there's nothing worse than trying to fix a fucked up threaded hole on a $4500 part because some He-Man thought the thing he was attaching needed to survive the apocalypse.

  8. #5


    Join Date: Apr 2009
    Location: MA/NH Border
    ME: Epi G400 LP Custom
    MB: EDB600/605

    iTrader: 1 (100%)

    Anything to really know about kinetic trainers? What separates a $350 trainer compared to a $150?

  9. #6


    Join Date: Sep 2008
    Location: Boston, MA
    ME: Suhr Modern
    Rig: Fractal / Kemper / 5150

    iTrader: 34 (100%)

    Quote Originally Posted by MFB View Post
    Anything to really know about kinetic trainers? What separates a $350 trainer compared to a $150?
    Short version: Don't get the shitty ones. They are cheap for a reason, and that reason is because they're shitty. If I hop on a cheap trainer, I could probably average 30 miles an hour for 2 hours. I'm not even kidding. They get your legs moving but that's about it.

    Longer version: The Kinetic ones feel like you're actually riding on the road. Realistic feel + spindown/spinup = better workout = you work harder = you will be faster and fitter. Plus they're infinitely more stable. I can stand up and sprint as hard as I can on my Kinetic and the thing doesn't move.

  10. #7


    Join Date: Sep 2008
    Location: Boston, MA
    ME: Suhr Modern
    Rig: Fractal / Kemper / 5150

    iTrader: 34 (100%)

    Quote Originally Posted by Leon View Post
    Good shit.

    Also, there's nothing worse than trying to fix a fucked up threaded hole on a $4500 part because some He-Man thought the thing he was attaching needed to survive the apocalypse.
    Yup. It's double true for carbon parts too. You can crush things like carbon handlebars (and carbon seat stays, which are part of the frame..) by over-torqueing very easily.

  11. #8


    Join Date: Sep 2008
    Location: Somerville, Ma
    ME: Suhr Modern 7
    MA: Martin MC16-GTE
    MB: Squier 5 string P-bass
    Rig: Mark V

    iTrader: 5 (100%)

    Quote Originally Posted by MFB View Post
    Anything to really know about kinetic trainers? What separates a $350 trainer compared to a $150?
    This is probably the best argument against I can make:

    https://www.strava.com/activities/346977434/analysis

    This was my sister's trainer, which she doesn't use (see Chris's earlier point) and I borrowed while recovering from knee surgery. I gave it a shot again after getting my Edge 510 (which has a rear wheel speed sensor - my last computer didn't).. The average speed of 26.5mph is actually deceptive, as you can see for the first few minutes I was dialing it in, and then I pretty much sustained 30mph for the rest of the sprint. I wish I could do that on the road, but I can't.

    On one hand... This is still a pretty good workout, I was sweating my ass off when I finished, and if all you care about is boosting your conditioning, this will probably cut it. On the other, if you're tracking stuff like distance and speed, the numbers you're putting out are essentially garbage. The trainer couldn't put out enough resistance, even at the highest of the three resistance settings - it felt like I was riding down a slight incline. I grabbed a Kurt off Craig's List a week or two ago for $200, and while I haven't done more than hop on to test it, it feels WAY more realistic - if anything, maybe like I'm riding against a very slight incline, or a headwind. I'll probably be maintaining 20-23 or so on this when I hop on, which is way closer to what I do in real life conditions.

    So, even a cheap trainer will let you get a workout in, a better one will just make it way more realistic. I'd say my advice for a new rider would be to skip the trainer and ride outdoors as much as you can - a good one is fairly expensive, and even the best trainer isn't really fun to ride on - you just sit there and sweat. As a new rider, priority #1, I think, needs to be having enough fun to get hooked on it. Once you're hooked, you'll put up with time on the trainer because you want to get stronger for the rides you DO enjoy. Until then, too much time on a trainer will just make you hate riding.
    "They can kill you, but the legalities of eating you are a bit dicier." - David Foster Wallace

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