My KM6 at some point in its life (I'm the 3rd owner) had a custom string set on it with a crazy fat low E string on it. When I first got it, I re-strung it with my normal .9s (.042) and the E sat so low it buzzed on the first fret. Not enough to notice through an amp or sim, but enough to notice...
So I put a Lo-Pro-Edge on a heavily modded RG-7420 and thought it would be an improvement. Overall it was, particularly for the string profile to fret board compatibility but it cannot stay in tune after doing both dives (both forward and back). Most of these problems have to do with the nut...
Any advise on installing a Floyd Rose locking nut on a new build?
I've only ever used typical nuts (bone, graphite, plastic, etc.)
In most cases, I can file it down and use a feeler gauge as a "safe edge" filing down until the nut slots are perfect.
Seems like it would be tough to do that...
Saw this on my YT feed and peaked my interest to watch it.
No Mods needed it just "floats" on your Guitar.
Think the price is a bit too much but people are paying 270€/$ for OD Pedals...
I'm building a strat style guitar and forgot to route out the nut slot when the neck was square. What is the best way to hog it out accurately after the fact? I started it with a chisel and it was coming out well but the chisel is just a little smaller than the nut. Too close to go up to the...
My goldtop is buzzing at the first fret A string.
I looked at the nut and the top of the string is below the top of the groove (which is usually an indication - along with the buzzing - that it's either cut or worn too deep.)
It's not horrible... just noticeable. So, there's no huge hurry.
So, the BCRich I have, the locking nut on that had pads that worked on the old style 10mm ibanez 7string nuts. SO, what nut should I look for, as I need 2 pads.
Anyone know? Are there jackson ones that are smaller?
I just watched a couple of guides on this, so I decided to try it out myself.
After filing down the nut slots on my new Solar the D string got a slight buzz, not too much but enough for me to wanna fix it.
So I practiced on a Warmoth neck before I go onto the Solar:
So I replaced the nut on my tele with a graphtech nut but I used a bit too much glue and the nut is now sitting too high. I know what I need to do, I need to remove the nut and sand down the slot to remove the glue and then glue it in again (with a bit less glue!). I'm not sure what kind of...
Forgive the complete n00b question, but I've never actually tried this.
If you have a floyd blocked so it's essentially a hard tail, there's not really a need to have a locking nut per say - can you take off the locking nut pads and use the floyd nut (sans the locking pads) just like a normal...
Worth taking a chance on for purchase?:
I just need the nut blocks/pressure pads. Nothing else.
Ok, so I went over my RG3120TW last night, and fixed MOST of the issues without issue; the truss rod is close to where I want it, the tone pot was actually loose but is now fixed, and the trem arm holder is tightened down again.
The two issues I want some input before I tackle, though:
All floyds was blocked to dive-only so I needed a floating too!
Had only a shit Kramer neck that I couldn't fret level properly.
So I took the neck from my old Fender Musicaster, put it on the Warmoth body.
Tuning stability = :metal:
Apparently, you really dont have to have a locking nut for...
So let me preface this by saying I am a bit OCD about things (and by a bit I mean a lot) and have a weird thought process. I have done pretty much every aspect of guitar maintenance for about as long as I can remember, aside from two things - fretwork, and nuts. I am not touching learning...
Saw this just now on FB Charvel Page that it will be shown at Namm... now... I went to check video etc and I found this:
Now... Im felling really stupid because Im not understanding what it really does... Is it like the Earvana Nut? If so how does it help your Wrists and all that talk??
I want to start changing the Chrome Hardware on my LTD ST 203 FR to Black and later on replacing the crap FR Special by a Gotoh one. Starting slow here so Nut will come first.
Now my issue is... the Nut says R1 and the measures are like 41.9 mm (42 basically)... but the approximate measures...
What do you guys think about the ugly Alumiloid inlays used in some of the Pro series made in Indonesia?
I think they are awful and make the guitars look cheap...
Even the cheaper X series guitars look better:
And another thing I've noticed is...