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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
It was a craigslist steal at $150. Strings are at least a year old but is awesome. The strings are pretty much gigantic compared to the GHS's I have on the Milestone but I think I'm ok with that. That's my big reason for this post as I don't know ANYTHING about bass strings. They seem like a totally different monster and guitar strings are complicated enough finding a good pair of 7 strings (which don't exist BTW...)

So if anyone has experience with this bass and could help point a guy in the direction of these requirements ala strings I'd appreciate it!

- going for a Justin Chancelor kind of sound. Chords, delayed clean, slight dist when needed. Nice high end
- I'm a guitar player and use .11-.56+.068 strings. I'm used to tree trunks but since I play bass like I play guitar the speed requirements might mean slightly smaller tree trunks on the bass.
-The E is dropped to D almost always.
- The B I'd like to drop to A sometimes. It handles it ok now; is a little floppy but as most of the drop A stuff is softer it's ok. There are some real heavy/fast A things I'd like to incorporate but if need be I can just use the 2nd A? For now?

Also what cheap things can I do to improve sound? Like I hear "proper shielding thrown around and "better preamp." I imagine the preamp is $$$ but shielding? Can I get an explanation on this front?

Also, does anybody know if this guy's got one solid body? Or a bunch o different pieces? Always prefer the natty woods so would be cool down the line :D

Pics? It's just a standard black gsr206

 

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Mr. Negative Pants, ,
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Most solid finishes, especially on entry level instruments, are covering less-than-pretty woods and multiple body laminates.
 

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Wirelessly posted

I had one of those for a while. Great feeling bass, from a guiarist's point of view. The neck is super slim.

They aren't the longest scale, so, if you're finding going to D and A (I'd hate that tuning) on the lowest strings is too floppy, you'll probably want to get a higher gauge.

You can freshen up the strings by loosening them and plucking the shit out of them. Really go great guns for it. Couple of minutes twanging and you've got much better strings.

I wouldn't invest too much in that level of bass, to be honest. The pickups aren't great, as well as that preamp. But new or cleaned strings will make it sound hugely better.

Like Darren said, probably lots of mismatched pieces of wood going on. My one looked like a 5piece body under its paint, judging from the lines you could see in it.

And congrats, man.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
There's a guy who is selling a Brice HXB in town for 200$ that I was thinking about going by and trying out to see if I like better. I really like the IDEA of a 30" scale and the string through bridge (not to mention the looks!) but it feels weird just getting this guy...and then selling it for the brice ^)^ I have conscerns about the 30" handling the lows though...
 

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Yeah 30" wont do low D or A without being flop city. you should look into some heavier strings on a 34" or 35" bass for that tuning.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Got some D'addario EXL170's that seem to be real nice. Thinner high's but a low .130 that doesn't flop about.

Having some issues with the bridge/frets. Can you guys clarify 2 things for me?

1) If the open strings don't buzz, but then there are inconsistent, very metalic fret buzz's - how does one fix that? I don't think it's an action thing. (eg; fret 4 and 5 don't buzz, but then 6 does, 7 doesn't, 8-10 do, 11 doesn't, 12 does...etc..)

2) Is it possible that the string holes in the bridge were drilled too high? It seems the High C and G string don't apply enough pressure to keep it seated. This causes intonation problems if it raises or falls as well as buzzing. I can simply raise the bridge saddles and thus increase the tension...but that's not really ideal as I'd like the action to be a bit lower.

Thanks!
 
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