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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My RG5T (neckthrough) has a slight bow, and as a result is buzzy, even with 11's on it. The truss is all the way out, and a quick check reveals that the neck is bowed a bit.

What are my options? I found this link here:

http://www.talkbass.com/forum/showthread.php?t=506888&page=2

Which is clamps and heat. Googling around, this fellow here:

Straightening a bowed neck? - My Les Paul Forums

Used a hair dryer, clamps, and some patience, basically bowing the neck w/heat and clamps a bit and when it unclamped it, it had some relief and was adjustable.

Anyone else try this with success? It's a great guitar, and unfortunately it's my only Ibby that I can't just get a new neck for.
 

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Dream Crusher
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I'd ask yourself, I mean your good friend Mr. Sherman. He'd know better than anyone else.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I don't want to refret it, it's not worth the hassle/money for this guy, and it's not something that I can do myself.
 

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Dream Crusher
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I don't want to refret it, it's not worth the hassle/money for this guy, and it's not something that I can do myself.
Advice is free though.
 

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I don't like it.
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I've tried the hairdryer thing, what I did was use 2 chairs, a 25lb dumbell, some nylon cord, and I tied the dumbell to the middle of the neck at the top of the bow, and heated the back side of the neck. I had minor success, but overall it was a waste of time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
The guitar is just a bit buzzy from 1-5 or so, and I can't really set the action any higher. Would shimming the nut do anything?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
:lol: No worries. I've just spent the last hour or so doing a setup, which we all know I love and adore, got it pretty much perfect, only to find out that the neck has issues. I'm a little grumpy. :(

I figured going from 10s to 11s might do the trick, but it's still fucking buzzing and I literally have the truss rod completely backed off. :mad:
 

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I don't like it.
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The guitar is just a bit buzzy from 1-5 or so, and I can't really set the action any higher. Would shimming the nut do anything?
Shimming the nut might do it. If you're running thin strings, thick strings can also help, not only to straighten out the neck but to reduce buzz in general. The truss rod adds back bow on that thing, not forward bow?
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Shimming the nut might do it. If you're running thin strings, thick strings can also help, not only to straighten out the neck but to reduce buzz in general. The truss rod adds back bow on that thing, not forward bow?
Pretty sure. I tried it both ways actually, and figured I'd crank it up and then let it all out. Tightening it up made it a SHITLOAD worse, and loosening it was working until I ran out of turns on it. I needed about another 3/4. :(

I went from 10-11's (see above) but no dice.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Also, I had this guitar Plek'd last year and the frets all completely done, so I really, really don't want to refret. It was kicking ass until today. I just haven't played it in a while because I've been on travel.
 

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Maybe try what Adam did with the weight, but use a lighter weight for a lot longer time period? Like a week or something?
 

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I think too much
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[action=Ken]has lots of shims and lives only 3 miles from the Post Office if you need it/ want it.[/action]
 

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MAMMALHAMMER
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From what I understand you have a concave bow. You need to add tension to the truss rod by turning it clockwise to counter the tension from the strings. To check neck curvature fret the low string on the first and last fret and look at the distance between the bottom of the lowest string and the top of the 8th fretwire. It should be the equivalent of the thickness of a business card(.010) (I use a automotive feeler gauges for precision). You can use a card to measure the distance by putting a capo on the first fret to free up a hand. Make sure to take the capo off and retune between adjustments because the truss rod is all about making the neck's curve at the right tension.

Once you have the truss rod setup to around .010 you will be able to adjust the action properly because the neck will be the correct curvature.

Stay away from shims, it's not even a workaround it will not take the place of a setup and will make matters worse. I've never came across a guitar that didn't play perfect after a precise setup using only the available adjustments.
 

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NICE BLACKMACHINE YO
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From what I understand you have a concave bow. You need to add tension to the truss rod by turning it clockwise to counter the tension from the strings. To check neck curvature fret the low string on the first and last fret and look at the distance between the lowest string and the top of the 8th fretwire. It should be the equivalent of the thickness of a business card(.010). (I use automotive feeler gauges for precision.)

Once you have the truss rod setup to around .010 you will be able to adjust the action properly because the neck will be the correct curvature.

Stay away from shims, it's not even a workaround it will not take the place of a setup and will make matters worse. I've never came across a guitar that didn't play perfect after a precise setup using only the available adjustments.
No, it's quite the opposite. He has a convex bow, where the string tension is not enough to overcome the truss rod tension, so his strings fret out between frets 1-5.

Chris, if you aren't willing to move up a gauge or two of strings best bet would be to either shim the nut slightly or alternatively raise the bridge and shim the neck, and tighten the truss rod. The second will offer slightly more playability than the first but is obviously a lot more work. Both are compromises, unfortunately. :(
 

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[action=Ken]has lots of shims and lives only 3 miles from the Post Office if you need it/ want it.[/action]
It's a neck-through, so what would he shim? The nut?

From what I understand you have a concave bow. You need to add tension to the truss rod by turning it clockwise to counter the tension from the strings. To check neck curvature fret the low string on the first and last fret and look at the distance between the lowest string and the top of the 8th fretwire. It should be the equivalent of the thickness of a business card(.010). (I use automotive feeler gauges for precision.)

Once you have the truss rod setup to around .010 you will be able to adjust the action properly because the neck will be the correct curvature.

Stay away from shims, it's not even a workaround it will not take the place of a setup and will make matters worse. I've never came across a guitar that didn't play perfect after a precise setup using only the available adjustments.
He said it was buzzy in a lot of places, and that larger strings (higher tension) helped, so I'm thinking he means that he has a backbow problem
 
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