Maybe Solder a bit of wire from the Trem Block to the Sping "attach" thing, might help as long as you compensate its length according to the Trem Movement.
Or remove the Springs and just take off the coating only where they meet Metal (Block and the other thing), so theres Metal in contact with Metal all the time.
These. I'd just run a wire from where the grounding tab is on the trem claw, to the block. Failing that just take the springs out and scrape the coating off where they make contact at both ends.
Why would soldering a piece of wire (6-8 cms) would ruin the tunning stability? As long as you dont have the cable getting tangled preventing movement...
The wire (thin wire) will have enough length to go back and forth and wont have any force... its just working as a conductor... the enough length will prevent applying any grabbing force...
No it wont man... ahahaha im laughing because its seems you arent seeing on how EASY this is and you are over complicating it... you will get it and then will say.... fuck... they were right
tears of anger at his soldering desk right now lmao. Well Rocka, if it doesn't work you could always still sand the ends of the springs to get the coating off. Actually you could probably get away with sanding just 1 spring on both ends.
Ok, you mean THIN wires like... if I trassled up a wire and just use one thinnest wire possible?
Well, that could work, yes.
But I was assuming I would use the wires I always use for grounding, regular guitar wires I use for everything in the electronics, which are rather thick... :idea:
Yes, if I trassled a wire and use the thinnest possible YES that could work.
I never use thin wires for grounding. Only if they come in like pickup wires 4-conducts but not between pots and bridge etcetc
Ok, you mean THIN wires like... if I trassled up a wire and just use one thinnest wire possible?
Well, that could work, yes.
But I was assuming I would use the wires I always use for grounding, regular guitar wires I use for everything in the electronics, which are rather thick... :idea:
Yes, if I trassled a wire and use the thinnest possible YES that could work.
I never use thin wires for grounding. Only if they come in like pickup wires 4-conducts but not between pots and bridge etcetc
I'd like to see you try and push a fully floating trem with a length of 22awg wire and see if it moves. It would be like trying to draw fine art with a piece of cooked spaghetti.
You could always just run a ground wire to one of the posts, so that it's attached through there instead of the trem claw... Requires a thin drill bit, but would be a permanent solution.
Ok so I attempted to solder the wire to the trem, and I couldn't get it to stick to the surface.
So I superglued it into one of the holes, and then knotted it around the claw. I made sure there was enough room so I could dive fully.
Result:
First, without ground wire.
Starts at perfect zero cents, and after a deep dive, I'm back to... zero!
Could have tried a few more times tho. But I know this guitar stays well in tune.
Then WITH the wire:
First I had to find the right body angle to make it zero (just leaning the guitar super little tips over tuning, which everybody knows about floating bridges)
So, the result showed that:
-2 or -3 cents on every divebomb! I fluttered and got back to perfect 0 pitch.
Just to be sure it was the wire, I tried removing the wire and then do the same procedure with many dives:
Now it returns much easier to 0!
Sure, it flickered just between 0 and -1 sometimes, but still better than -2 or -3 as I got everytime with the wire attached!
SCIENTIFIC RESULT:
A wire will screw with tuning stability.
If fluttered it will return to pitch tho.
CONCLUSION:
Leave the bridge alone from stuff that prevents movement.
Ok so I attempted to solder the wire to the trem, and I couldn't get it to stick to the surface.
So I superglued it into one of the holes, and then knotted it around the claw. I made sure there was enough room so I could dive fully.
Result:
First, without ground wire.
Starts at perfect zero cents, and after a deep dive, I'm back to... zero!
Could have tried a few more times tho. But I know this guitar stays well in tune.
Then WITH the wire:
First I had to find the right body angle to make it zero (just leaning the guitar super little tips over tuning, which everybody knows about floating bridges)
So, the result showed that:
-2 or -3 cents on every divebomb! I fluttered and got back to perfect 0 pitch.
Just to be sure it was the wire, I tried removing the wire and then do the same procedure with many dives:
Now it returns much easier to 0!
Sure, it flickered just between 0 and -1 sometimes, but still better than -2 or -3 as I got everytime with the wire attached!
SCIENTIFIC RESULT:
A wire will screw with tuning stability.
If fluttered it will return to pitch tho.
CONCLUSION:
Leave the bridge alone from stuff that prevents movement.
I find that all very weird but ok... (hope you gave it enough Lenght so it never streches)
Last resort, get a HUGEEEEEEEEEEEEE wire roll it in one of the tunning Pegs and roll the other tip around your wrist or leg, it works and you have freedom of movement, since its a Studio Guitar you dont have to look Metal and Cool
If it didn't stretch theres no force whatsoever preventing any kind of movement on the Trem... being there or not being there is the exact same... like I said early.. really weird.
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