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HOLY DIVE-AH!
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I've been thinking about building out an actual board for a few years now. I'm running on cardboard for far too long :agreed:


I did a planer app and i need about 30" wide board on 2 rows to fit everything roughly the same way it's laid out now, with the exception of the DL4 not being sideways.

I really only use the GEC9 controller.... i don't hit pedals directly at all.

So, i was thinking about going 'more square' instead. perhaps 20 on 3 rows?

thoughts on square vs rectangle?

I don't really play out (does anyone these days?) and i have plenty of space in my music area, but i do want to maximize efficiency and space. I think a rectangle makes more sense if i was using the pedals directly.

Cord lenghts and power cable lengths are on my mind as well. Square might offer less total distance in cable runs if i end up making my own.

perhaps even a 2nd story to run them all stacked up?

thoughts?
 

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Guiterrorizer
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15,696 Posts
2-tier and less depth imo.
 

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Hates Richie Kotzen
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Long rectangle with an angled surface is ideal. Flat sucks. Angled wedge is king.

The multi level ones with risers aren't really practical. They look awesome, but that's about it. First off they have to be very sturdy, and secondly anything beneath it will be very difficult to stomp on so tapdancing will require even more precision than usual.

The tiered ones with risers aren't even used to get more space most of the time, it just looks cool, you can achieve the same thing with an angled board. It doesn't actually give that much more real estate unless the things you are putting under there are always on. That space is only good for things like power supplies because you can't actually stomp on them.

 

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Hates Richie Kotzen
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Tiered is also more difficult to transport and requires the board to be pretty heavy so it won't be tippy. You need a much deeper case. Heavy boards are cool on the other hand. I like heavier sturdy boards. I purposefully made my current one strong enough for me to stand on.
 

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Guiterrorizer
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Looking closer at the pic, won't that all fit on a PT-2? Mount the power underneath.
 

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Hates Richie Kotzen
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There are actually a number of considerations OP should take into account.

1) Is this a stompbox pedalboard you and potentially others will be stepping on street shoes? Or is this all the pedals collected on a board light duty home use type thing? Sometimes people post pictures of fancier setups without stating that although it is technically on a board, they keep it in rack drawer and don't actually stomp on it. The part that people identify as David Gilmours cool pedalboard is actually the bit he keeps in rack drawers. The actual parts he stomps on are heavier duty. The bits he actually stomps on are rehoused in a heavy duty tank like housing by Cornish. There's a difference between a functional pedalboard and a bunch of pedals on a board you aren't actually stomping on with street shoes.



2) If you are building a pedalboard that is an actual stompbox board that is going to go on the ground and get dirty, don't build something you feel comfortable stepping on, build something you feel comfortable with other people who have no idea how it works stepping on it. If it's a board you are actually using around other people the criteria for what you need is different.

3) I redid my actual stompbox board to be higher up off the ground than I originally planned for. I live in an area with snow. If you put that it on a hardwood floor or a concrete floor and put something with snow on it that melts, like boots, the entire bottom with the wires is going to be sitting in water. I don't like the ones that have the wires on the underside too close to the ground. It's easy to say "well don't put it in a puddle of water" or something, but the truth is that unless it is a stay at home pedalboard, someone else is going to do something stupid around it and you have to anticipate that. If it's a "lug around and stomp on with street shoes" board being higher up also helps it get less dirty. If it's an actual stomp board you bring places and step on with street shoes, it will get ridiculously dirty.

4) Build it bigger than you think. Trust me. Don't go off "I need this many heights of boss sized enclosures." A lot of people also plan their boards by putting the pedals down not wired up. A shit ton of boards sold have stock pictures that show they can fit a bunch of pedals that aren't actually plugged into one another as a chain or wired for power. In terms of height, if you think you need 2 boss enclosures worth of height, go 2.5. If you think you need 3, go 3.5.

5) There's a debate whether the amp footswitch is part of your pedalboard. I'm in "fuck yes you savages, obviously the amp footswitch should go on the board, who doesn't put their amp footswitch securely on their board?" guy but I know tons of people who have a board and then put the footswitch off to the side. They are wrong, but you have to take into account that you might expand or use a bigger amp footswitch in the future or things like that.
 

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Hates Richie Kotzen
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Oh, and go for a thick ass piece of wood for the top, one you can drill into with the pedals attached.

That's the huge advantage wood has over metal. If you want to fix routing to be extra clean on the bottom of a metal board, your ways of securing the wires in place are limited to things the stick to metal or posts or whatever built into the board or adhesive.

On wood, you can use these. Best thing that ever happened to my boards wiring. Drill wherever you want, no one sees the bottom of the board anyways. The only downside is that, as pictured here, you end up having to clean sawdust off your board after routing.

The metal boards are extremely cool, but if you want super clean routing firmly fixed in place, your options are more limited. You can only use those shitty standoffs to hold the routing in place secured by adhesive. Those heavy duty coax clips rule. Whenever I want to rearrange things and want the routing to be clean and as unobtrusive as possible I just flip the board up and drill the correct locations into the underside. Make sure to get the heavy duty ones though that clamp down on the wire though, the hardware store kind intended for outdoor cable runs.



On the underside of metal boards you either have to zip tie to existing things or use those terrible adhesive standoffs, which are not secure at all. Make the top a thick piece of wood so you can use the heavy duty coax clamps.

 

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Dream Crusher
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Rectangles generally fit better, I'd say, unless you're trying to fit into a really narrow space. Easier to reach the pedals, easier to carry, and your 4x12 is wide anyway so when you store it up against the amp it is more out of the way.
 

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HOLY DIVE-AH!
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
yeah, i'm thinking the rectangle makes more sense in the long run.

30x14 seems a bit much for my 7 boxes and controller though, but it is what it is. I've thought about making my own out of wood, but cutting an angle without the mitre saw is probably futile. I'll probably end up picking up a used on somewhere. I'm not opposed to the wood ones, but i think i want a metal one.

I really only need the gec9. All my amp channel switching is all done in patches along with the pedal changes. It's really a bad-ass unit. I bought it AS a footswith for my amp as i didn't have one.... and that was just a few bucks more than buying a replacement unit so here we are.
 

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Ha! I wanted the pedals off the ground. The front is probably 8 inches high. You can see and reach them a lot easier. Jay
 

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Ha! I wanted the pedals off the ground. The front is probably 8 inches high. You can see and reach them a lot easier. Jay
Seriously, get an old hard sided briefcase. Should be able to make a nice board that you can close and easily carry. Power strip with a hole thru the case like I did with the wooden box.Piece of plywood cut to fit and velcro. I have a plan to do this eventually.
 
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