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Power Soak Options

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#1 · (Edited)
Well, with me going out today with the plan of buying a 100 watt head, I've been convinced by all of you to get a power soak as well. Unfortunately, my weaksauce status as a retail worker means that my options are limited, but promising. Budget is very much a concern, as I'm not exactly rich right now.

I've found three options I can feasibly get, since a rockcrusher is out of my price range by a lot. The first is the Jet City Jettenuator, which doesn't seem to be getting the best reviews as far as tone suck goes, but it's quite cheap new.

The second is the old Rockman power soak, which sounds decent in the videos I have found, but many people seem to find them to be less than ideal. It has the advantage of being incredibly cheap, however, and you can pick it up for around 100-125 off ebay any day, since there are so many listed.

The final option is trying to get a hot plate cheap. They're around double the price of the other two, even when it's a deal, so I'm unsure whether it is worth it. Of course, if they sound transparent and work great, then that would be optimal.


Opinions very much welcome. I'd love to hear from anyone with experience with these models.


EDIT: And to clarify, I wouldn't be cranking the hell out of the amp, I'd just be looking for enough attenuation where I could let the poweramp open up but be able to stay on speaking terms with my family.
 
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#2 ·
Don't get an attenuator :lol:

Just turn it down. No, you won't get that cranked sound at low volumes, but you STILL won't get that sound with an attenuator. All they do is help you burn through your power tubes faster.

Quiet bedroom jamming: Volume down, Gain up.
Gigging or practicing: Volume up, Gain down.

:yesway:
 
#4 ·
Leon has a cranky old dude who works on his amps. Don't mind him.

The Hot Plate I have is great - it's less crucial with the Roadster than it was with the Rectoverb I used to have, but it definitely makes it a lot easier to control a high powered tube amp at the lower range of its power, and while it won't help get high levels of saturation out of your power amp at quiet volumes, it definitely makes the amp a lot more useable, both in terms of dialing in quiet tones, as well as getting the poweramp to break up a bit at "shit that's loud!" levels instead of "HOLY SHIT THAT'S LOUD!" levels. It also gives you a DI out if you want to record direct with a cab impulse.

The Hot Plate is great, and I'd also give the Weber attenuators a look. I haven't tried one, but the switchable ohm ratings are a big plus, and their design is supposed to react more like a speaker.
 
#7 ·
This.

With all due respect to anyone with the THD, I think, after trying them on several amps, that they don't sound very good. This is likely due to the resistive load, not reactive.

The BadCat Unleash (the newer model, and the one you want) and the Rivera Rock Crusher are reactive, and sound way better, especially at higher levels of attenuation. The Unleash is particularly cool due to the effects loop and built-in class D power amp.

Unleash
 
#11 ·
They don't burn through power tubes faster, unless you run the thing balls to the wall and then turn the attenuation up full bore. If you're using them properly, i.e. to take the edge off a loud amp, it'll be fine. I've ran every amp I've had through one up until recently, and never had an issue.

Yeah, if you play on 10 everyday, you'll burn through power tubes. But the same would occur if you played on 10 without one, as well.
 
#12 ·
Are there reasonably priced attenuators out there that can handle a 120 watt amp?
 
#15 ·
I would not recommend a power attenuator. In the past (1970s, 80s), I have used an Altair PW-5 power attenuator and a Sholz Power Soak. The amps that I had at the time (Fender Dual Showman, Peavey VTM120) did not have the same sound with the power attenuator that they had turned up loud without the attenuator. On the other hand, I got great results using the Master Volumes on a Marshall JCM900 2100 SL-X.
 
#16 ·
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Henry Terry said:
I would not recommend a power attenuator. In the past (1970s, 80s), I have used an Altair PW-5 power attenuator and a Sholz Power Soak. The amps that I had at the time (Fender Dual Showman, Peavey VTM120) did not have the same sound with the power attenuator that they had turned up loud without the attenuator. On the other hand, I got great results using the Master Volumes on a Marshall JCM900 2100 SL-X.
Technology has changed in the last 20-30 years. Attenuators sound a lot better now, particularly those using reactive loads.
 
#19 ·
You would think that, but then there's the Marshall Power Brake. :lol:

But yea, really what you're doing is wearing tubes at the rate they would wear if the amp was ACTUALLY at earsplitting volume. No biggie. :lol:
 
#21 ·
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Drew said:
You would think that, but then there's the Marshall Power Brake. :lol:

But yea, really what you're doing is wearing tubes at the rate they would wear if the amp was ACTUALLY at earsplitting volume. No biggie. :lol:
Yeah, I guess I should have qualified my statement by saying I'm referring to modern attenuators, like the Leash/Unleash, Rock Crusher, and HP.

Whenever you're talking about something affecting the load of the amp, it needs to be good quality.
 
#22 ·
Yeah, agreed. I suspect the Power Brake may be a big part of the reason attenuators get such a bad rap in some circles, I guess it has a well-earned reputation for just failing, taking the amp with it.
 
#23 ·
Wirelessly posted (iDevice of Awesomeness)

Drew said:
Yeah, agreed. I suspect the Power Brake may be a big part of the reason attenuators get such a bad rap in some circles, I guess it has a well-earned reputation for just failing, taking the amp with it.
If the amp tech I've worked with is to be believed (grain of salt, I suppose), reactive load attenuators not only sound better but are safer for the amp.

Don't know, but comparing the relatively pricey Rock Crusher to my old HP, the RC sounds worlds better. That alone is worth it.
 
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