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Retarded P.A Overlord.
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well, in the up and few months, I can finally get rid of my shitbox Corsa and buy something a little more worthwhile. I'm gonna buy myself a Civic Sport. The 1.6 16v effort, which looks almost exactly the same as the Type R. I know some of you are thinking "why the fuck buy something that piss poor?", but there's method in the madness.

However, if I'm looking at dropping £4k on a half decent car, I want to make sure I enjoy it as much as possible. So I'm looking to you guys to help me with my car audio needs. My only requirements are.

  • I can deafen myself
  • There's no break-up from the speakers (as that REALLY pisses me off)
  • I don't have a seperate sub
  • Everything is hidden, or as near hidden as can be
  • Headunit has bluetooth and iPod/iPhone 4 compatibility, either Aux or USB

I know that some people might be thinking what the fuck I'm doing asking for something like this without subs, however, I drove a Passat Highline Estate the other day when I got sent on a business trip, and that thing sounded just about perfect. Everything in it was stock (since it was a hire car).

What do you guys recommend. Preferably under £600, but I'm not shy on going over this, since anything that goes in, can just as easily come out again and go into another car when I sell again :lol:
 

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I am Groot
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32,450 Posts
If you want to deafen yourself AND have no speaker distortion, then you are looking at a four channel amp, a sub, and a sub amp. I guarantee you that the Passat you drove has a sub hidden somewhere in it, be it in the doors or under the seats.

For head units, there are three names to remember: Alpine, Alpine, and Alpine. Every single time I buy something different, I wind up regretting it. The deck is like a guitar amp in that it is the one piece of hardware that you do not want to cheap out on. I've got Alpine decks in two of our vehicles, and the iPod integration is fantastic.

Speakers are a matter of listening to tons of them and figuring out what you like best. Don't spend more than $200 a set, unless you're prepared to spend over $600 a set. Most of the stuff above $100 all sounds about the same, everything under is junk, and over $600 you're just paying more to impress the judges at a competition. Remember that am automobile is a miserable listening environment, so there is no need to sink a bunch of money into it. Unless you have passengers in the rear seats on a regular basis, I wouldn't even bother with the speakers back there.

You can put together a sub setup quite cheaply, and make it easy to remove. Kicker makes a 300w monoblock amp that can be found for dirt on E-bay, and a good 12" sub in a sealed box is also pretty inexpensive. Radio Shack sells quick connects that make it easy to remove the whole thing, which is what I did when I had to load gear for shows.
 

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Retarded P.A Overlord.
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Strangely enough, I have an Alpine unit in my current car, it's all I've ever bought :lol: I never thought of subs under the seats you know. Do you recommend any particular set-up?
 

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I am Groot
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32,450 Posts

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Retarded P.A Overlord.
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·

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I am Groot
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DDIN units are ridiculously expensive, so unless you absolutely need video and GPS, just skip it. They make conversion kits that give you a DIN space a storage space. My wife has the Alpine CDA-105 in her Jetta. It's a great head unit at a very reasonable price, has all the iPod integration, supports iTunes tags (whatever that means :lol:), and has a CD player (many no longer do).

Seriously, get a 1x12, buy that 300w Kick monoblock amp, screw it to the sub box, and wire it up with quick connects. Otherwise, you'll be dropped $1000 for a stealth sub setup that sounds like shit compared to a 1x12.
 

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Retarded P.A Overlord.
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I suppose I can warm to the idea of a sub enclosure in the boot :lol: The perks of driving a hatchback and carrying gear are limited I suppose :lol:
 

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I am Groot
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kicker zx300 items - Get great deals on Electronics, eBay Motors items on eBay.com!

I've got the previous model (which was only 250w), and it kicks all sorts of ass. Look how cheap they are, too.

12 sealed sub box items - Get great deals on Electronics, eBay Motors items on eBay.com!

Also cheap. Just buy a sub and drop it in.

KICKER CVR12 2 OHM COMPVR 12" SUBWOOFER SPEAKER - eBay (item 300461690922 end time Sep-02-10 01:50:27 PDT)

Just look how cheap the subs are. I just built you a sub rig for around $200.
 

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I am Groot
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This is the sort of connector I am talking about. You'll need three "pins" total: power, ground, and signal. Use wood screws to secure the amp to the box, and you can leave the speaker wire permanently connected.
 

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Retarded P.A Overlord.
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Awesome! At least now I have an idea of where to go. It's just getting the right car now :lol: Cheers for all the help dude!
 

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MG.ORG Irregular
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also stick some sticky side of the velcro to the bottom of the box so it doesn't move around in your trunk
 

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For head units, there are three names to remember: Alpine, Alpine, and Alpine. Every single time I buy something different, I wind up regretting it. The deck is like a guitar amp in that it is the one piece of hardware that you do not want to cheap out on. I've got Alpine decks in two of our vehicles, and the iPod integration is fantastic.
This. This. So fucking much this. I actually have my MECP cert, and I've installed roughly 9238749823749823749237498234798234798274923 of myself and my friends car stereos over the years. The last deck I bought was a double din Kenwood and it was a piece of shit, and it was the only time I ever deviated from Dave's Golden Rule.

Alpine is the way to go, bar none.
 

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also stick some sticky side of the velcro to the bottom of the box so it doesn't move around in your trunk
:lol: All that's going to do is tear up the carpet. A couple of small blocks tapped into the flooring on either side is the right way to do it if you have a generic box that's slide-prone.
 

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Yeah, a 1x12 in the trunk, like I posted. :lol:
For metal, I've always preferred 10s to 12s for tighter bass response. :metal: One of the best sounding metal tunings I've ever heard was Josh (TheOldJosh)'s single 10" sealed enclosure in a hatchback. It was loud, tight, and just hit like a sledgehammer.

:jj:
 

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Seriously, get a 1x12, buy that 300w Kick monoblock amp, screw it to the sub box, and wire it up with quick connects. Otherwise, you'll be dropped $1000 for a stealth sub setup that sounds like shit compared to a 1x12.
Correct again, minus the speaker size opinion. :) Stealth boxes require much more power, and therefore much higher end subs to get the bass to image up to where you actually hear it. The other option is running your sub super loose, which is only good if you listen to nothing but Sir Mix-A-Lot all day long.
 

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NSLALP
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I had a Sony head and speakers in my old Buick, which I quickly dumped for an Alpine head (kept the speakers). I then added a 200-300w Alpine sub amp and 1x10 Eclipse sub in a sealed enclosure with about 1/3 of a Farad of inline capacitance and... fuck... it was TIGHT. Most audio car subs will not do ostinato double-bass work with authority, but that's all you need right there. I couldn't get RIDICULOUS with rap music etc., but it was no slouch.

By contrast, as much as I love my car's factory Pioneer system (best factory setup I've ever heard), the low-profile 10" aluminum sub is a wimpy bitch and not very tight. It's passable but not as much fun. Should have kept the amp and enclosure and ran speaker-level inputs to it. :(
 

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I am Groot
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This. This. So fucking much this. I actually have my MECP cert, and I've installed roughly 9238749823749823749237498234798234798274923 of myself and my friends car stereos over the years. The last deck I bought was a double din Kenwood and it was a piece of shit, and it was the only time I ever deviated from Dave's Golden Rule.

Alpine is the way to go, bar none.
I broke my golden rule and bought a DDIN Pioneer for my Passat, since I wanted GPS, but not video. You cannot pause the goddamn iPod. WTF?
 
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