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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all,

I recently picked up a Loomis Sig used as my first 7 but unfortunately the original owner liked his action touching the roof. I have set up every guitar i own with comfortable action and no buzz through a clean channel however this one is proving tricky.

The top 6 strings (EADGBe) are relatively easy to set up but the low A string is buzzing on every fret. I currently have it tuned to drop A with a 9-46 set and a low 66 (all d'addario). When fretted at the first and 24th fret there is approximately .015" space between the low A string and the 7th fret. The action is set to approximately 2.5mm at the 12th fret on the low A string. The other 6 strings aren't a problem and are a joy to play. I use a black jazz III but even soft picking creates a buzz.

I have also rocked a credit card over all the frets excluding the very top few (which it was too long for) and it wouldn't move on any of the frets.

If it helps i can record a D.I clip of the buzz and upload pictures.

I would have taken it to my local luthier by now but he is on holiday for 2 weeks and the only local shop I trust charge a lot and don't stock sevenstrings.

Any advice is greatly appreciated!

Fraser
 

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I'm sure someone else will come in here with more knowledge, but have you adjusted the truss rod? Does the buzzing continue if you tune the the low A string up to B? Did the original strings buzz at all?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I'm sure someone else will come in here with more knowledge, but have you adjusted the truss rod? Does the buzzing continue if you tune the the low A string up to B? Did the original strings buzz at all?
I've tried the truss rod straighter and with more bow but I either end up with even more of buzz on the low frets only, or an equal amount of buzz on the high fret's only. When I tune the low A up to a B the buzzing is slightly less but nothing major. The original string buzzed but it was a 60. I went up to a 66 to try and solve the issue but all it seemed to do was even then tension out.
 

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Dedicated Chiller
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Maybe you'll have to sand down the frets a little? :shrug:

Btw is it a TOM or tremolo?
 

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MG.ORG Irregular
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Another thing you could try is raising the bridge a bit. This would help until you get it checked out by your tech. Slack your strings before you raise it though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Maybe you'll have to sand down the frets a little? :shrug:

Btw is it a TOM or tremolo?
Thanks for the advice!
I've checked the frets and they all seem level so I would assume that's not the case? Then again this is something i'll have to check when my tech is back from holiday.
It's the TOM model :)
 

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Slow Money
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FWIW, you WANT a touch of relief in your neck. If its perfectly straight, thats your problem right there
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Another thing you could try is raising the bridge a bit. This would help until you get it checked out by your tech. Slack your strings before you raise it though.
Thanks for the advice!
I've had a fiddle with the bridge as well but it only stops buzzing at around 3-4mm which i find almost unplayable. I'd be happy to just get used to the action as it is if it didn't buzz so badly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
FWIW, you WANT a touch of relief in your neck. If its perfectly straight, thats your problem right there
Well that's the thing. When I loosen the truss rod a touch the buzz on the lower fret's is reduced. But this raises the action on the higher frets slightly and still doesn't remove the buzz above the 12th fret.
 

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Dedicated Chiller
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The thing with guitars with TOM bridges are that (IMO) the neck needs to be slightly more curved than on guitars with hardtail-type bridges or tremolos. It's not much, and you can adjust the bridge height and so on, but from what I've experienced it is hard to get a perfectly even action all over the neck with a TOM bridge guitar, unless you can live with some fret buzz.

:shrug:

But I might be wrong so I'll let someone else either second or oppose this statement
 

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Dream Crusher
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The thing with guitars with TOM bridges are that (IMO) the neck needs to be slightly more curved than on guitars with hardtail-type bridges or tremolos. It's not much, and you can adjust the bridge height and so on, but from what I've experienced it is hard to get a perfectly even action all over the neck with a TOM bridge guitar, unless you can live with some fret buzz.

:shrug:

But I might be wrong so I'll let someones else either second or oppose this statement
I own mostly TOM'ed guitars, and I heartily disagree. But, YMMV.
 

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Dedicated Chiller
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I own mostly TOM'ed guitars, and I heartily disagree. But, YMMV.
I guess I'll have to work a little more on my TOMs then :lol:

Forget what I said Fraz :lol:
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Okay i've ordered a new 0.66 and a 0.70 to try out in case it's either a dud string or there just isn't enough tension.
I'll keep this thread updated but in the meantime any suggestions are still very welcome!
Cheers again for the replies :)
 

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Slow Money
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The thing with guitars with TOM bridges are that (IMO) the neck needs to be slightly more curved than on guitars with hardtail-type bridges or tremolos. It's not much, and you can adjust the bridge height and so on, but from what I've experienced it is hard to get a perfectly even action all over the neck with a TOM bridge guitar, unless you can live with some fret buzz.

:shrug:

But I might be wrong so I'll let someone else either second or oppose this statement
What? How does that even make sense? :lol:

There is a bit of truth to the height issue that you mention, but it has absolutely nothing to do with neck curve. The issue is that bar filing your saddles, you dont have per string hight adjustment, so if your neck radius doesn't match up perfectly with the bridge (bar slight adjustment to the saddles, ie filing the higher strings a hair lower), it can present a few issues. The curvature of the neck etc is all irrelevant (well, not any more relevant than with any other bridge) except for the purpose of workaround fixes to avoid fixing the real issue (or unknowingly to trying to fix it incorrectly).

TL;DR toms aren't different than any other bridge regarding neck curve etc, theyre just harder to do height adjustments on per string.
 

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Dedicated Chiller
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What? How does that even make sense? :lol:

There is a bit of truth to the height issue that you mention, but it has absolutely nothing to do with neck curve. The issue is that bar filing your saddles, you dont have per string hight adjustment, so if your neck radius doesn't match up perfectly with the bridge (bar slight adjustment to the saddles, ie filing the higher strings a hair lower), it can present a few issues. The curvature of the neck etc is all irrelevant (well, not any more relevant than with any other bridge) except for the purpose of workaround fixes to avoid fixing the real issue (or unknowingly to trying to fix it incorrectly).

TL;DR toms aren't different than any other bridge regarding neck curve etc, theyre just harder to do height adjustments on per string.
Ok ok I give up! :lol: It's just that every time I have tried to get an even action all over the fretboard (from fret 0 to 22) the angle of the strings over the fretboard either causes some frets buzz, or the the action on the high strings get way too high. I can try again, but what should I do to fix this?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Ok ok I give up! :lol: It's just that every time I have tried to get an even action all over the fretboard (from fret 0 to 22) the angle of the strings over the fretboard either causes some frets buzz, or the the action on the high strings get way too high. I can try again, but what should I do to fix this?
Haha sounds like we're in the same boat! I'm hoping that my string is defective though because there is so much more buzz than on the others.
I'll let you know when I test the new one out (waiting on delivery now).
 

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Slow Money
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@zeet:
That sounds like either your fretboard and your bridge radii dont match, or you need a fretboard level. You want the neck almost straight, with just a touch of relief. Also, depending on how action is at the first few frets, the nut may need adjustment as well. If that stuff doesnt resolve the issue, youre in need of a fret level.
 

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Dedicated Chiller
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@zeet:
That sounds like either your fretboard and your bridge radii dont match, or you need a fretboard level. You want the neck almost straight, with just a touch of relief. Also, depending on how action is at the first few frets, the nut may need adjustment as well. If that stuff doesnt resolve the issue, youre in need of a fret level.
Hmm... that thing about the nut... I noticed just now when you said it that the nut on that guitar is rather low actually. Maybe that's the culprit. Whenever I try to flatten out the neck to what would give a nice even action all over it the lower frets start buzzing. I haven't really though of the option of replacing the nut... :ugh:
 

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Slow Money
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yeah either your nut is too low or your low frets are too high
 

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Is Actually Recording
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Well that's the thing. When I loosen the truss rod a touch the buzz on the lower fret's is reduced. But this raises the action on the higher frets slightly and still doesn't remove the buzz above the 12th fret.
Setting up a guitar is really all about compromise. For one, zero buzz on low action is virtually impossible, so my guideline has always been reduce buzz to the point where notes still sound full, and buzz is I audible through the amp even if I can still here a little acoustically.

However, a little more pertinent to the present situation - really, just how many notes on the low B will you be playing above the 12th fret? I would consider trading a bit more buzz over the 12th for less buzz on the first twelve frets a good decision, since you WILL spend a lot of time riffing down there. Ideally I try to get it clean across the entire board, but if that's your choice than IMO it' an easy one.
 
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