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Is Actually Recording
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok, so I went over my RG3120TW last night, and fixed MOST of the issues without issue; the truss rod is close to where I want it, the tone pot was actually loose but is now fixed, and the trem arm holder is tightened down again.

The two issues I want some input before I tackle, though:

1) The bass side anchor being too high, as it turned out, was caused by a slightly loose bass-side trem stud pulled up partially from the body. On a basswood guitar a loose anchor would be really concerning. Mahogany is a lot harder and more dense, though, so I'm less worried about it. I pulled it out and reinserted it rotated slightly for the time being, which had it tight enough that I couldn't rock it at all for the time being, but longer term, would simply coating the inside of the anchor hole lightly with wood glue, letting it dry, and then pressing the anchor back in do the trick? Possibly mixing a little sawdust with the glue?

2) The locking nut was way off center. Turns out, it shipped without screws. :lol: It was just held in place by the string pressure running across it. It's actually playable as is, but tuning stability sucks if you bend or use the trem. :lol: Does anyone know if the rear-mount OFR screws are a direct retrofit for an Edge nut? I have a couple spares around I just haven't had the time to try yet. Barring that, I'll just buy a new nut.

I kinda wonder the prior owner swapped the hardware before selling - it's cosmo black and not powder cosmo, pretty clean for a '98, there's the matter of the missing screws and the loose arm-holder (and I wonder a little if that's why the guy swapped, not knowing it's an easy fix to tighten up)) and the volume and tone knobs were on a little too low so the tone, in particular, rubbed on the finish as you rotated. Easy fixes, but it makes me think it wasn't factory.
 

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Premium Member
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7,286 Posts
When I have pulled and re-inserting loosened bushings I have often used bent saddle shims (both back and front of bushing!) and superglue to make sure they stay in place.

NO LOCKING NUT SCREWS?!
Anyway, I think they should fit. Gotoh makes the Ibby stuff.
I have swapped Gotoh and OFR locking nut screws, and that works. :)
 

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I don't like it.
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11,071 Posts
Try putting a bit of paper over the stud then pressing it in.

I believe the rear mount screws should be the same, but it's easy enough to just try them out and see if they work.


I wouldn't put superglue where it's not supposed to be.
 

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Is Actually Recording
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Fuck that. :lol: I might carefully apply woodglue, but no superglue is going near this thing. :lol:

Picture of the back of the headstock:



:lol:
 

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Hates Richie Kotzen
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I wouldn't bother with sawdust, sounds like it's time for the old toothpick trick.

If any screw in hardware isn't secure enough, just put a toothpick in the hole, break everything that's not in the hole off, and screw on your hardware.

Most commonly used on straplocks, since Schaller screws are sometimes slightly loose in factory routes. I use Cliplocks now, which ship with giant drywall screws, but you should always keep a box of toothpicks in the guitar kick. Useless if any screw hole thing has been too heavily reamed out and a slightly smaller screw is loose.

Also, do not buy guitar screws from the manufacturer. :lol: Buying individual screws from guitar hardware from manufacturers is downright ridiculous. It's something like a 500%+ markup. You can go to the nearest hardware store and get them for like, pocket change.

I swear, it's criminal, every manufacturer does it, but the profit margin on selling individual screws is ridiculous. I'm pretty sure the "official floyd rose" screw and the "Ace Hardware" screw are the same thing. We would need a Rocka test to know for certain though.
 

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Dream Crusher
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21,053 Posts
I wouldn't bother with sawdust, sounds like it's time for the old toothpick trick.

If any screw in hardware isn't secure enough, just put a toothpick in the hole, break everything that's not in the hole off, and screw on your hardware.

Most commonly used on straplocks, since Schaller screws are sometimes slightly loose in factory routes. I use Cliplocks now, which ship with giant drywall screws, but you should always keep a box of toothpicks in the guitar kick. Useless if any screw hole thing has been too heavily reamed out and a slightly smaller screw is loose.

Also, do not buy guitar screws from the manufacturer. :lol: Buying individual screws from guitar hardware from manufacturers is downright ridiculous. It's something like a 500%+ markup. You can go to the nearest hardware store and get them for like, pocket change.

I swear, it's criminal, every manufacturer does it, but the profit margin on selling individual screws is ridiculous. I'm pretty sure the "official floyd rose" screw and the "Ace Hardware" screw are the same thing. We would need a Rocka test to know for certain though.
Except you can get the Ace Hardware screw in stainless :lol:

Also, I don't think I'd toothpick the trem stud . . .
 

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Hates Richie Kotzen
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The toothpick method is infallible.

Yeah it's way less deep than the straplock hole, but toothpicks are a miracle cure for guitar issues.
 

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I don't like it.
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11,071 Posts
If you can fit a toothpick between the trem stud and the body it's probably a pretty big issue.

Fuck that. :lol: I might carefully apply woodglue, but no superglue is going near this thing. :lol:

Picture of the back of the headstock:

:lol:
I'm telling you, piece of paper around the post is probably all you need. Doesn't get simpler, easily reversed, and has similar density and properties to the wood around it, unlike wood glue. Wood glue typically dries a bit rubbery.
 

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Is Actually Recording
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
The toothpick method is infallible.

Yeah it's way less deep than the straplock hole, but toothpicks are a miracle cure for guitar issues.
This isn't the strap, though, this is the trem stud :lol:

If you can fit a toothpick between the trem stud and the body it's probably a pretty big issue.

I'm telling you, piece of paper around the post is probably all you need. Doesn't get simpler, easily reversed, and has similar density and properties to the wood around it, unlike wood glue. Wood glue typically dries a bit rubbery.
It's nowhere NEAR loose enough to get a toothpick in there - maybe if I shaved one down a lot I could do it, but as it is, definitely not. As it stands, I'm not sure I could wrap paper around the stud and push it in. There's only the tiniest amount of play, and right now it feels pretty stable; I just want to make it permanently so.
 

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I don't like it.
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11,071 Posts
If you have the paper overlap the bottom some the side of the trem post hole should hold the paper as you press it in. You can wrap paper around only one side if need be. Paper is only a few thousandths thick, so it's good for making up a very small gap, IMO.
 

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I used this stuff to fix a stripped out strap hole and worked great. Im surprised nobody else around here has tried this stuff. I would just carefully on the edges of the post hole. Just my 2 cents I suppose.

 

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Is Actually Recording
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I used this stuff to fix a stripped out strap hole and worked great. Im surprised nobody else around here has tried this stuff. I would just carefully on the edges of the post hole. Just my 2 cents I suppose.

Actually that crossed my mind too but does that have the same compressability as wood?
 

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Actually that crossed my mind too but does that have the same compressability as wood?
I would say so. When I screwed the strap button back in, i had a hell of a time and REALLY had to work at it. Then again, I didnt drill a pilot hole but still. I am not exactly sure what it is made out of but I THINK its a better form of "sawdust and glue".

If you have a decent guitar shop near you, go in and speak to a luthier and he will tell you what is a good route to go.
 

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Safe Spaces Advocate
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3,125 Posts
I've never fixed a trem stud before... but...

Brush wood glue around the edges of the hole and wood glue around the insert. Wait for it to tack up good and then re-insert.

My opinion.
 

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Dream Crusher
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21,053 Posts
Given that you may want to pull the stud in the future, it may be worth asking whether to avoid glue/wood filler. I like Adam's suggestion re: paper with an edge under the stud. If you have one, you can use a clamp (with one side under the table, and the other side with something padded between the clamp jaw and the stud to protect the finish) to slowly and evenly press it back in.
 

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Given that you may want to pull the stud in the future, it may be worth asking whether to avoid glue/wood filler. I like Adam's suggestion re: paper with an edge under the stud. If you have one, you can use a clamp (with one side under the table, and the other side with something padded between the clamp jaw and the stud to protect the finish) to slowly and evenly press it back in.
Nobody is telling him to "glue in" the stud. If you use glue/filler, you let it dry before inserting. That way it wont be an issue if you need to pull it out/adjust it later if needbe.
 
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